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Elevation: 6,247 ft
GPS: 35.7358, -106.764
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 75,337 total · 352/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

Boasting some of New Mexico's best granite sport climbing, this area is a sharp contrast to the red and brown color surrounding it. Short approaches, less than vertical to vertical rock, and mostly single pitch sport climbs. However, there are some trad lines here and a few multi-pitch climbs. The rock quality varies, and some can be quite loose. A helmet here is not a bad idea.

Because of the shape of the valley here, summertime temperatures can be hot! Mornings are nice on the west facing walls. During the afternoon one can jump in the river to cool off, then climb on the east facing walls later during the afternoon. In the spring the river can be roaring and crossing it to climb on the east side could be cold/scary.

This area is relatively new and most climbs still have not seen many ascents. Gilman can be accessed throughout the year and has no restrictions for access.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the directions to the Jemez Valley Area, and from San Ysidro, drive 8.8 miles on highway 4. After the Jemez Valley School, and a big dip in the road followed by a gradual turn to the right, look for SR 485 to the left (AKA FR 379 after it turns to dirt). After taking this left turn follow the road past Canones, continuing up the road until the road disappears into tunnels through the rock. Drive through both tunnels and park anywhere there is a pull-out.

47 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Gilman Tunnels Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Gilman Tunnels

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Wet Feet
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Trads into Rads
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Entrapment
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Juan It Done Right
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
Out of the Shadows
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
[Redacted]
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Cyber Crime
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Moist Hoist
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Vicarious Living
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Big Brother
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Happy Feet
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Under Siege
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Hostile Takeover
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Ecksteinator
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 10
Dough Boy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wet Feet Dr. Seuss Wall
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Trads into Rads Broken Arrows > Left Arrow
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Entrapment Broken Arrows > Left Arrow
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Juan It Done Right Dr. Seuss Wall
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Out of the Shadows Second Tunnel
 26
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
[Redacted] Gyno Wall
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cyber Crime Broken Arrows > Left Arrow
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Moist Hoist Spectator Wall
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Vicarious Living Spectator Wall
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Big Brother Broken Arrows > Left Arrow
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Happy Feet Broken Arrows > Right Arrow
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Under Siege Broken Arrows > Right Arrow
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hostile Takeover Broken Arrows > Right Arrow
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ecksteinator Broken Arrows > Right Arrow
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dough Boy Broken Arrows > Perp Area
 10
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Gilman Tunnels »

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