Elevation: 6,247 ft
GPS: 35.736, -106.764 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 66,858 total · 355/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

Boasting some of New Mexico's best granite sport climbing, this area is a sharp contrast to the red and brown color surrounding it. Short approaches, less than vertical to vertical rock, and mostly single pitch sport climbs. However, there are some trad lines here and a few multi-pitch climbs. The rock quality varies, and some can be quite loose. A helmet here is not a bad idea.

Because of the shape of the valley here, summertime temperatures can be hot! Mornings are nice on the west facing walls. During the afternoon one can jump in the river to cool off, then climb on the east facing walls later during the afternoon. In the spring the river can be roaring and crossing it to climb on the east side could be cold/scary.

This area is relatively new and most climbs still have not seen many ascents. Gilman can be accessed throughout the year and has no restrictions for access.

Getting There

Follow the directions to the Jemez Valley Area, and from San Ysidro, drive 8.8 miles on highway 4. After the Jemez Valley School, and a big dip in the road followed by a gradual turn to the right, look for SR 485 to the left (AKA FR 379 after it turns to dirt). After taking this left turn follow the road past Canones, continuing up the road until the road disappears into tunnels through the rock. Drive through both tunnels and park anywhere there is a pull-out.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gilman Tunnels

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Entrapment
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 27
Cyber Crime
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Moist Hoist
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Vicarious Living
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Big Brother
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Under Siege
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Two Stirrups for Sister Sara
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Ecksteinator
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
XXX
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 9
Dough Boy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Entrapment Broken Arrows > Left Arrow
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cyber Crime Broken Arrows > Left Arrow
 27
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Moist Hoist Spectator Wall
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Vicarious Living Spectator Wall
 5
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Big Brother Broken Arrows > Left Arrow
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Under Siege Broken Arrows > Right Arrow
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Two Stirrups for Sister Sara Gyno Wall
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Ecksteinator Broken Arrows > Right Arrow
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
XXX Second Tunnel
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dough Boy Broken Arrows > Perp Area
 9
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Gilman Tunnels »

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