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Areas in Gilman Tunnels

Broken Arrows, The 1 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Corridor, The 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Dr. Seuss Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Falls Area 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
First Tunnel 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Gyno Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Second Tunnel 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Spectator Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Description

Boasting some of New Mexico's best granite sport climbing, this area is a sharp contrast to the red and brown color surrounding it. Short approaches, less than vertical to vertical rock, and mostly single pitch sport climbs. However, there are some trad lines here and a few multi-pitch climbs. The rock quality varies, and some can be quite loose. A helmet here is not a bad idea.

Because of the shape of the valley here, summertime temperatures can be hot! Mornings are nice on the west facing walls. During the afternoon one can jump in the river to cool off, then climb on the east facing walls later during the afternoon. In the spring the river can be roaring and crossing it to climb on the east side could be cold/scary.

This area is relatively new and most climbs still have not seen many ascents. Gilman can be accessed throughout the year and has no restrictions for access.

Getting There

Follow the directions to the Jemez Valley Area, and from San Ysidro, drive 8.8 miles on highway 4. After the Jemez Valley School, and a big dip in the road followed by a gradual turn to the right, look for SR 485 to the left (AKA FR 379 after it turns to dirt). After taking this left turn follow the road past Canones, continuing up the road until the road disappears into tunnels through the rock. Drive through both tunnels and park anywhere there is a pull-out.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gilman Tunnels

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Gilman Tunnels has reopened. Use caution and good judgment on the climbs on the road side, looks as though the construction team did some "cleaning".
jemezpost.com/2017/08/14/gi… Aug 15, 2017
I was at Gilman today looking at Soylent Green and saw a route just to the left of it that was not in the guide book Jemez Rock. Anybody know the name and grade of the climb? Jun 24, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
If you like that, check out "3:10 to Yuma" with Russel Crowe & Christian Bale. There's a 10-minute sequence involving the Tunnels, plus many more NM areas such as Diablo Canyon.... Dec 28, 2010
Christian Garland
Talala, OK
Christian Garland   Talala, OK
I just watched the movie Gamer with Gerard Butler and in the last 5 seconds of the movie you see them driving on a road with tunnels....its Gilman Tunnels! Check it out next time you see the movie. Dec 28, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Warning: the bolt counts listed in Jemez Rock and RC NM for many routes in this area are incorrect. Often you'll need more quickdraws. I haven't climbed here much (so this is not a complete list), but in 2 days of climbing here, I've found discrepancies on the following climbs (numbers from Jemez Rock): #1,#2, #6, #7, #16, #17, #22, #23. Jul 27, 2007

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