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Routes in Left Arrow

All Dogs go to Heaven, Toby S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Big Brother S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cyber Crime S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Entrapment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trads into Rads S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trinity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 836 total, 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 15, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Another excellent technical face climb, Big Brother climbs a devious weakness up the beautiful central face of the Left Arrow. This line offers little straight-down pulling; much of the challenge comes in figuring out how best to sidepull, lieback, undercling and otherwise ooze up the cliff.

Begin by surmounting the slight overhang with interesting, and somewhat spooky protruding crystals and flakes. Once established on the hanging wall, snake along the fractured dyke, surmounting a small roof with little difficulty. Just before the end, the dyke vanishes, and the cliff face becomes more monolithic. The crux comes surmounting a small roof just before the anchor, with balancey moves on small holds.

Location

The next line right (S) of the Cyber Crime/Entrapment start. Also the first line of bolts right of the belay bolt on the large ledge at the base of the Left Arrow.

Protection

Bolts to 2 BA.

Photos

Karl Kiser
  5.11-
Karl Kiser  
  5.11-
The left screwlink is a very small one. The next person should take a 5/16" link and replace it. Or better yet, take a screw link and a small piece of chain. Aug 20, 2017