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All Locations > New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Gilman Tunnels > Spectator Wall

Moist Hoist

5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British


 Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes

Routes in Spectator Wall

Moist Hoist S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outlander S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stallone Bone S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Vicarious Living S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Wezwick and Matt Gray, 1996
Page Views: 1,130 total · 10/month
Shared By: JimmyK on May 11, 2009 with updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

P1 - Climb up to two bolt anchor at the center of a diagonal crach and over two large black bulges(100 ft - 5.10).
P2 - Follow bolts up. Some loose rock toward the top. Alternate and easier finish goes up the last 20 feet. Could use small stoppers at beginning of P2. (100ft - 5.10)

Location

70 meter rope required

Protection

Two - 2 bolt anchors

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Short/Steep 15-minute approach: park before the first tunnel and ski down some scree to cross the river, then hike up more scree to base. <br> On 9/9/2017 crossing was ankle-deep & avoidable. Nice swimming hole for a post-climb skinny dip.
Short/Steep 15-minute approach: park before the…
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Wes starting pitch 1 and cruising up thereafter
Wes starting pitch 1 and cruising up thereafter
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Climbers leading the second pitch of Moist Hoist
Climbers leading the second pitch of Moist Hoist
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4 Comments

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bruce birchell
 
bruce birchell  
 
Excellent route! Pitch 1 has multiple "thinking" crux's, but not super physical. Pitch 2 I thought was underrated. Those first two overlaps are pretty tough and you have to pull harder. With the added problem of some loose crystals that could send you packing, it's a fair bit more serious than pitch 1. I thought the first crux of pitch 2 was at least 10.d, the way I did it. That last crux at the top is no gimme either!
It's a good thing J.A. was leading that one. Whew!!
Jeremy is right, it needs more traffic to clean up.

Bruce on pitch 1






Jeremy on 2nd overlap, pitch 2
Aug 2, 2010
HarrisonABQ Bucy
Albuquerque, NM
 
HarrisonABQ Bucy   Albuquerque, NM
 
A 60m rope did not work for me! I think it reached to the top of the second bolt on pitch two rapping down. Didn't even try a single rope rap for the first pitch. Good thing we drug a second rope behind us. 12 bolts on each pitch. I think the second pitch was slightly harder than the first with two cruxy sections instead of one like the first. Second pitch is still loose and cleaning up. Jun 11, 2012
Mark Johnston
Mark Johnston  
Agreed fun route! I did this with some newer climbers and was expecting 1st pitch to be a good second route after warming up. Ha note: pitch 1 is 110ft+ a 70 meter rope or double rope rappel is required for this route! I didn't see anything specifying this in the guide book so beware. Other than that debacle the route is fantastic, long, airy, fun moves (stemming, a bulge, face climbing...)

  • ***70 meter rope required, (or 2 ropes) 1st anchors are 115ft off the ground****

recommended.

mj Jul 8, 2012
CJ K
Northern, NM
  5.10c PG13
CJ K   Northern, NM
  5.10c PG13
Climbed this route on Saturday (3/15/14). Tons of loose rock, my belay was dodging rock at one point. It is supper solid in places and other places just terrible. Cleaned it up a little bit but it needs to see traffic in order to clean up further. If you look at the picture above (Bruce on pitch 1), the bright colored block to the right of the second quick draw is about to blow... BE CAREFUL... that's a big block to fall on (or near) your belayer. Also, 70m rope is mandatory to rap safely. Even with a 70m you will have to scramble off a little ledge. Great route because of the solid slaby sections. Mar 17, 2014

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