PRINT: Rock Climb Happy Feet, Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley

Happy Feet

5.11b, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 9 votes
FA: Juan Lopez
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Gilman Tunnels > Broken Arrows > Right Arrow

Access Issue: December 1 & 2, 2025 - Gilman Tunnels Temporary Closure Details

Access to the Gilman Tunnels via Forest Road 376 will be prohibited for both motorized and non-motorized traffic on December 1 and 2, 2025 to conduct critical rock stabilization work. For public safety and to allow crews to complete their work on time, the public is asked to avoid the area during the closure period. Details here: fs.usda.gov/r03/santafe/new…

Description

Happy Feet is a variation to the stellar Hostile Takeover that avoids the difficult roof-crux. This line still packs plenty of punch, sharing the first three bolts of extreme face climbing on HT. Begin as for HT, but after reaching the ramp'ish rock above the third bolt, head right and over the bulge with relative ease to a long headwall of excellent 5.10 face climbing.

Another variation to Happy Feet avoids the crux bolts 1-3 by scrambling up to the upper Perp Area and traversing into Happy Feet at ~10c.

Location

Start as for Hostile Takeover but veer right after the 3rd bolt.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The crux of Happy Feet, which is also the first three bolts of "Hostile Takeover"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dave Wachter

5.11b/c

Excellent sustained technical face climbing! Crux seemed to me to be the lower section (shared with hostile takeover), but this one will hold your interest all the way to the top. I beg to differ with the 5.10 rating for the upper section (though I suppose if the best holds are chalked up it could be easier than I found it). In any case, this is old school climbing so don't be surprised by the old school rating.
I thought the rock seemed solid, but just saw the comment about a trundled rock. Bottom line is that some crags like Gilman and Diablo (Solar Cave, Sun Devil and Winter Walls) just keep on exfoliating and can never be trusted. Be careful what you pull or step on and a helmet is highly recommended for belaying! Jul 15, 2012