Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,216 total · 11/month
Shared By: Casey Bald on Sep 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is the first route to the left of the popular Beelzebub corner Look for three bolts on a steep face.

Pitch 1. Make interesting moves off the ground to the first bolt. Make even more interesting and strenuous moves to reach the second bolt. Next, move up and left making some awesome body tension moves to a jug and the third bolt. Traverse right and then back left to the anchors.

Pitch 2. Move up and left from the belay following a tricky left angling dike protected by pins. Move straight up a difficult slab to bolt protection to the end of the arch on Beelzebub, or you can move right after the last bolt and finish with the 5.9 crux on Reign of Fire
and belay from the bolt anchors on Loose Lips.

Location Suggest change

Directly after the Ethereal Buttress, left of the Beelzebub corner.

Protection Suggest change

Small to medium cams and nuts, quick draws, and a couple of shoulder slings to reduce rope drag.