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Routes in West Rock

Alien T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geez Louise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ground Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Growth Spurt T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How Ed Lost His Mind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Bolter T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Rage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,131 total · 9/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 26, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This route likely has one of the finest 5.9 cruxes anywhere! Just wish the rest of the route was as good as the top! Rope up at the foot of the blocks that lie under a roof and a sketchy looking boulder that looks like it is slightly detached from the rest of the formation (actually, this is where I placed my first piece of pro, as sketchy as the block looked it didn't appear that it was going anywhere and I am sure that I am not the first who has been on it). Once gaining the blocks at the base of the climb, you can slide a #3 Camelot up and right. To your left is a flared crack that does not accept pro well. The next few moves, though not difficult, felt uneasy to me because of the skecho block. Continue up a good crack with excellent pro and through a bulge. Once gaining the bulge you will get to a slightly overhung, smooth headwall with a beautiful crack running through its center. At first glance it appears more difficult than 5.9 but face holds, good position within the crack, and jugs continue to emerge until you meet the bolt anchors.

Location

At the southeast end of west rock, there is a high pillar that is slightly detached from the rest of the formation. The route starts behind two large pine trees (yes, I know, almost every route here starts behind pine trees!). Look for a stack of blocks below a small roof and a prominent crack above.

Protection

Single set of Camalots from 0.4 to #3, with a set of nuts, is sufficient. The #3 was placed down low and save the #2 for the top. Bolt anchors.

Photos

Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
There are a few wasps loitering about the route right now. Micah was stung while OSing this route yesterday. Fun route, always a good warmup. Sep 1, 2013
derek craig
  5.9+
derek craig  
  5.9+
Felt 9+ on lead. If this route was taller it would a classic and probably graded harder... Jul 28, 2011
Stephen Carlos Rydalch
Golden, CO
  5.9
Stephen Carlos Rydalch   Golden, CO
  5.9
As of yesterday the anchor is in great shape with two bolts each holding good condition link chains. Thanks to those maintaining the routes. May 7, 2009
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
Hmmm, that's a good question, I wish I had remembered to count those links. Sorry.

Tony Sep 11, 2007
Matt Price
  5.9+
Matt Price  
  5.9+
I just did this route yesterday, it was awesome just like the guidebook said! The old webbing was still there and we didn't have any to replace it :( The bolt with the webbing is a couple inches lower that the bolt with the chain. It would still need several links of chain ~6-7? Sorry I don't know exactly. Sep 10, 2007
Mike Howard    
 
Anthony,
How many links of chain does it need?
Mike Aug 27, 2007
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
At the top of this route, there are two bolts. One has chains on it while the other has webbing connected to a rap ring to equalize the rappel. The webbing appeared that it needed to be replaced either with new webbing or a chain to match the other side. I will attempt to do this the next time I get out there (if I remember), or if someone else gets to it first that would be great! Aug 26, 2007

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