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Routes in West Rock

Alien T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geez Louise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ground Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Growth Spurt T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How Ed Lost His Mind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Bolter T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Rage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Giddings?, June 1990
Page Views: 411 total, 3/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

A good thin face problem, this one sees more traffic than most 5.11s at TP because you can set a TR on it from Eds Mind.

Hard lieback moves in a seam begin about 6' up. These can be protected by a small cam or nut, which doesn't seem that good. Some might consider using a crashpad or stick clip. Even with this gear, there are still a couple hard moves above this piece before you reach the first bolt. More tricky thin face/slab moves follow. Stay true to the line and don't move left to Eds Mind until you need to. Join How Ed Lost His Mind at the 3rd bolt, make a weird move passing an overlap (or the last hard move can be avoided by runout 5.8 on flakes to the right). Run it out to the anchor on easy low-angled slab, with an optional gear placement in the angling crack you cross.

Location

This climb is on the S Face of West Rock (#1), just to the right of the pine tree and the routes Ground Up and 'How Ed Lost His Mind'.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You'll likely want nuts or small cams for supplemental pro, especially the 1st piece (a microcam is very useful).

Photos

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Jesse Morehouse   CO
 
I think a blue Alien saved my life getting to the first bolt. Jun 7, 2008