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Routes in West Rock

Alien T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geez Louise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ground Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Growth Spurt T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How Ed Lost His Mind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Bolter T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Rage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 351 total, 3/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Aug 11, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

The route is 5.10 b/c if you go straight up.
Jackson describes this as "contrived and funky". However, a much mellower and more natural line (5.8) can be found by starting to the right of the first bolt (in the crack for How Ed's Mind Was Lost) and weaving in and out of the bolt line to the top.

Location

Behind the large tree at the base of West Rock. Lower or rap from anchors.

Protection

3 bolts plus 1 fixed pin to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
"Taos Rock" is in error, I think, in that it describes the climb that starts behind the tree left of How Ed Lost His Mind as 'New Rage', 5.9+. Don't get sandbagged; this is 'Ground Up'. It's full-on 5.10 if you stick with the bolts. The 5.9+ climb is actually about 20' to the left of 'Ed's Mind'.

I would recommend bringing wired nuts. Makes a few moves a lot more comfortable. Apr 4, 2008