Continue with Facebook
How Ed Lost His Mind
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 10
votes
Routes in West Rock
|
|
Alien T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Cooper the Bopper S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Copper's Excellent Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Geez Louise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Gotta Love Sticky Rubber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Ground Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Growth Spurt T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Holy Moly S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Holy Smokes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
How Ed Lost His Mind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
I Am Groot S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
I Was Groot T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Mad Bolter T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Missing Mai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
New Rage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Roy to the World T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Sister Sue S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Zig Zig S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Ed Jaramillo |
| Page Views: | 1,135 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Stout on Aug 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting.
Details
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
The descriptions to this route conflict when comparing Taos Rock (Foley) to Rock Climbing New Mexico (Jackson). I am unsure the exact direction the route was intended to go so am only describing the way I went. It would be great if someone could comment on the intended direction of the route setter.
Start at the base of a nice crack/right facing dihedral. Follow this crack to its end, good pro placements throughout. At the end of this crack I placed two 0.4 Camalots, as I thought the face above was quite run-out. Gather your nerve, and make some friction moves. The next 4 feet or so after your last protection are the worst then it lightens up until you can reach up and clip a bolt (this is also the third bolt of Mad Bolter). After clipping the bolt continue straight up through the crux and some more friction climbing (undercling), and clip the next bolt. After clipping the second bolt you will come on another crack, and above are a few easy face/friction moves to a two bolt anchor.
An error in Foley's book notes three bolts on this climb, showing one in his photo-topo that should be located somewhere near the end of the crack. This one did not exist.
Start at the base of a nice crack/right facing dihedral. Follow this crack to its end, good pro placements throughout. At the end of this crack I placed two 0.4 Camalots, as I thought the face above was quite run-out. Gather your nerve, and make some friction moves. The next 4 feet or so after your last protection are the worst then it lightens up until you can reach up and clip a bolt (this is also the third bolt of Mad Bolter). After clipping the bolt continue straight up through the crux and some more friction climbing (undercling), and clip the next bolt. After clipping the second bolt you will come on another crack, and above are a few easy face/friction moves to a two bolt anchor.
An error in Foley's book notes three bolts on this climb, showing one in his photo-topo that should be located somewhere near the end of the crack. This one did not exist.
Location
Southwest of Alien, look for three lines of bolts. To the right is a thin seam that is the start of Mad Bolter, and to the left is a slab climb, Ground Up.
Photos
- No Photos -
3 Comments