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Routes in West Rock

Alien T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geez Louise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ground Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Growth Spurt T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How Ed Lost His Mind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Bolter T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Rage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: ?, maybe post-1981
Page Views: 280 total, 4/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Aug 8, 2011
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Climb the gradually steepening slab toward the lone high bolt (40' up there?). Thin overlap seams provide some gear placements before and after the bolt.
Fun friction puts you up the steepest part of the slab, then amble to the top. This climb would be a good intro to Tres Piedras slabs; spicy, but much easier than Gila Monster or Pony Express.

Note: Both Foley and Jackson give this climb an "X" rating. That was probably the case back when it had to be climbed with passive gear, but the availability of microcams makes this a less sketchy outing. However, the current 1/4" bolt is probably just for show, and the cam placements aren't totally bomber either, so be aware.

Location

Located along the western face of West Rock #1, about 30 meters (?) from the southern end of the valley between West #1 and 2. Two large rotten snags lean against the rock face; the route ascends between these dead trees.
Scramble off to the south; cross through a saddle and drop off the southernmost toe of West Rock.

Protection

One ancient 1/4" buttonhead with a Leeper hanger marks the route. Take microcams for the overlaps before and after the bolt, and a small handful of finger/hand-sized stuff for a gear anchor on top.

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