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Routes in Pulse Wall

Cliff Notes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desolation Row T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flatline S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gulliver's Travels S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lazy Days S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Angler S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Voltage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pulse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Quickie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shock Therapy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Static Cling S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tales from the Crimp S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tool Story T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tool Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toy Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith 11/98
Page Views: 206 total, 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 13, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

The Hardest route on this small section of cliff to the right of Tales From the Crimp (5.12b) and the only one that is all bolted. A very cool and challenging climb on steep rock that eases up in angle at the top but increases in difficulty as well.

Start on the same steep powerful moves as Tool Story but continue following bolts straight up. The angle eases up a bit and around this point the good holds run out and you climb some pretty tough moves on slopers and small holds to the anchor.

Location

Same start as Tool Story (5.10b) but follow the bolts straight up.

Protection

3 bolts to anchor

Photos

M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
Ok, I got on this one two weeks ago, and here's my beta for short people.

BETA SPOILER:

When you get your hands up on the ledge, move to the right. Don't be tempted to climb up and get your feet on the ledge yet---the kneebar is a trap! Stay to the right of the chockstones, stemming your feet out, and get your right hand up on the slopey crimp on the arete. Bump it up one level to the next (better) slopey crimp just a few inches above. Now switch your left hand to an undercling in the big hole and start walking your feet up. Get your feet on the ledge and lean/stand to the left, eventually releasing your left as you work your right hand up the arete---there is an ok slopey spot and then a pretty good dish/knob about the level of the bolt. Clip; then from here, step your right foot up on the lowest slopey crimp on the arete, rock over, stand up, and then head for the top. Apr 18, 2017
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
I'd appreciate that man! May 10, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I forget my trick every time but it I climb it soon and I remember, I'll let you know May 10, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
If anyone could PM/email me the "trick" for this one I would be super appreciative. I know there's gotta be something I am missing because what I was trying felt quite a bit harder than 10d. Cool climb though....I enjoyed doing the "Tool Story" link-up after this. May 9, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I went into this climb knowing my friends had once flailed. Awkward or tricky is pretty accurate. Cool technique once you figure out what you want to do. :) Nov 16, 2012
Chad Laflamme
North Conway, NH
Chad Laflamme   North Conway, NH
Very awkward crux. I tried to muscle it the first couple times, did not go over well. Tricky beta makes the moves much easier; don't worry I won't spoil it though. Apr 21, 2009