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Tool Time

5.10d, Sport,  Avg: 1.9 from 36 votes
FA: Chris Smith 11/98
New Hampshire > Rumney > Pulse Wall
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description

The Hardest route on this small section of cliff to the right of Tales From the Crimp (5.12b) and the only one that is all bolted. A very cool and challenging climb on steep rock that eases up in angle at the top but increases in difficulty as well.

Start on the same steep powerful moves as Tool Story but continue following bolts straight up. The angle eases up a bit and around this point the good holds run out and you climb some pretty tough moves on slopers and small holds to the anchor.

Location

Same start as Tool Story (5.10b) but follow the bolts straight up.

Protection

3 bolts to anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo taken after the lead.
[Hide Photo] Photo taken after the lead.
jeff, trying to onsight
[Hide Photo] jeff, trying to onsight
talk to the hand
[Hide Photo] talk to the hand
Me trying to muscle through the crux (unsuccessfully.) Photo by Bryce Dalhaus
[Hide Photo] Me trying to muscle through the crux (unsuccessfully.) Photo by Bryce Dalhaus

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] I went into this climb knowing my friends had once flailed. Awkward or tricky is pretty accurate. Cool technique once you figure out what you want to do. :) Nov 16, 2012
Matt Levine
Portsmouth, NH
[Hide Comment] If anyone could PM/email me the "trick" for this one I would be super appreciative. I know there's gotta be something I am missing because what I was trying felt quite a bit harder than 10d. Cool climb though....I enjoyed doing the "Tool Story" link-up after this. May 9, 2015
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I forget my trick every time but it I climb it soon and I remember, I'll let you know May 10, 2015
Matt Levine
Portsmouth, NH
[Hide Comment] I'd appreciate that man! May 10, 2015
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] Ok, I got on this one two weeks ago, and here's my beta for short people.

BETA SPOILER:

When you get your hands up on the ledge, move to the right. Don't be tempted to climb up and get your feet on the ledge yet---the kneebar is a trap! Stay to the right of the chockstones, stemming your feet out, and get your right hand up on the slopey crimp on the arete. Bump it up one level to the next (better) slopey crimp just a few inches above. Now switch your left hand to an undercling in the big hole and start walking your feet up. Get your feet on the ledge and lean/stand to the left, eventually releasing your left as you work your right hand up the arete---there is an ok slopey spot and then a pretty good dish/knob about the level of the bolt. Clip; then from here, step your right foot up on the lowest slopey crimp on the arete, rock over, stand up, and then head for the top. Apr 18, 2017
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] Nice texture to the rock on this one. Makes it worth doing (and also gives you confidence in holding on). Sep 15, 2020
Jeff Cegan
Boston, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Here's a video to complement the beta described in the comments. This is a wonderful route that deserves more traffic! youtu.be/v6ARb-WbqZ8 Aug 8, 2021