Type: Sport
FA: Dave Quinn, Oct '01
Page Views: 362 total · 3/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 3, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details


A very improbable line up a nearly blank less than vertical face. Bring a microscope to find the holds (both hands and feet) at the crux.
I was amazed when i clipped the chains on this one cause you look down and wonder how you managed to stick to the blankness.

Stick clip the first bolt and work your feet up to the good ledge 6 feet up where you can clip the second bolt. Then move slightly right on MICRO crimps. Continue up on hard to locate holds to a good hold where you are through the business and clip the 3rd bolt and make easy moves to the top.

I think this is a great climb but it could be very frustrating for someone who isn't suited to VERY crimpy "on your feet" climbing.


The blank face left of Toy Story etc.


3 bolts to anchor


Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I am a really long way from getting on this route but I have to say this has to have on of the best names in rumney Apr 16, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
....i poop on this route..... dumb teeny weeny tiny itty bitty smidgin holds..... Apr 30, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Started working the moves out on this yesterday. Unlocked the sequence for the top two bolts and TR'd from the ground up to the 2nd bolt stance without too much trouble. I can't wait to fill in the 6ft of blankness and put this route to bed. :) Apr 4, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
I haven't been on it so I guess I can't comment but it looks painful... Oct 31, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I couldn't find a partner to climb with and didn't end up bumping into friends at Kennel like I had hoped so I came around the corner and checked out this thing again. I guess I can crimp on tiny edges and nubbins.

Video of me on Tales from the Crimp. My first 12b/c! self belayed :)
youtube.com/watch?v=WS15GkS… Mar 27, 2012
I've considered myself a "crimp" climber up until this point, but this climb shattered that personal descriptor (unable to clip 3rd bolt). Some advice: use new or sharpened shoes before attempting. Jul 25, 2016