Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Sanders
Page Views: 3,714 total · 27/month
Shared By: Joshua Merriam on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


71 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

A great crack, thin hands that widen as you ascend.

Location

Upper east face of Buzzards roost. If approaching from below, go a few hundred feet up and around to the Right (facing uphill) of the imposing dihedral (Fear of flying).
If approaching from the top, follow the trail down and around to the right (facing downhill) a few hundred feet.

Protection

a few medium size cams should be all you need. There are two bolts off to the right up top which can be used for the anchor.

Photos

talkinrocks
Boulder, CO
talkinrocks   Boulder, CO
Great route, albeit short. Good practice crack for the budding 5.9 hand jammer. If this crack went on for another 150 feet, it would be one of the sweetest pitches ever. Besides everything in Yosemite. Eats up #2 camalots. May 24, 2009
Nick Ehman
Bloomington, IN
 
Nick Ehman   Bloomington, IN
 
pro is easy and always available. jamming is very straightforward and very fun. very fun for my first trad lead. May 24, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.9-
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.9-
Short and sharp. Tape up. Sep 28, 2012
Ky Harkey  
 
BD #.75-#4 Mar 31, 2013
Ryan Levihn-Coon
Austin, Texas
  5.10a
Ryan Levihn-Coon   Austin, Texas
  5.10a
Can be top-roped easily if desired by using the bolts a bit to the right on Conspiracy and seeing a directional in the top of the crack. A number four works well for the directional. Mar 17, 2014
Greg Barbosa
Austin, TX
  5.9
Greg Barbosa   Austin, TX
  5.9
Agree with Alex. Even with tape this climb isn't super comfortable. May 24, 2015
Maria Bisaga
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Maria Bisaga   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great for those without large hands. Such a fun lead, wish it was longer! Definitely bring a #4 for the anchor. Jan 23, 2017
Christopher Smith  
  5.8
Love this climb. It's sharp you have to be precise with your beta (unless you've got small hands and can just hand jam everything on it lol). It eats .75s through 4s although it's no biggy to just run it out after the last 2 placement right below the jug. Nov 23, 2017
Christopher Smith  
  5.8
After now having done alot of the .8s in the park I'm now reasonably confident that the .9 grade on this climb is featherbagged something fierce. It's just way too easy compared to things like SA Crack, Texas Treescent and Obscured by Clouds. Bush Crack on the other side of Buzzards I think is much more worthy of the .9 rating since it has some thin moves down low and ringlocks in the middle. Oct 11, 2018