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Routes in East Face of Buzzard's Roost

Aquatic Anxiety T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Shrike T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Snatch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Texas Crude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Sanders
Page Views: 3,324 total, 26/month
Shared By: Joshua Merriam on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


A great crack, thin hands that widen as you ascend.


Upper east face of Buzzards roost. If approaching from below, go a few hundred feet up and around to the Right (facing uphill) of the imposing dihedral (Fear of flying).
If approaching from the top, follow the trail down and around to the right (facing downhill) a few hundred feet.


a few medium size cams should be all you need. There are two bolts off to the right up top which can be used for the anchor.
Love this climb. It's sharp you have to be precise with your beta (unless you've got small hands and can just hand jam everything on it lol). It eats .75s through 4s although it's no biggy to just run it out after the last 2 placement right below the jug. Nov 23, 2017
Maria Bisaga
Austin, TX
Maria Bisaga   Austin, TX
Great for those without large hands. Such a fun lead, wish it was longer! Definitely bring a #4 for the anchor. Jan 23, 2017
Greg Barbosa
Austin, TX
Greg Barbosa   Austin, TX
Agree with Alex. Even with tape this climb isn't super comfortable. May 24, 2015
Ryan Levihn-Coon
Austin, Texas
Ryan Levihn-Coon   Austin, Texas
Can be top-roped easily if desired by using the bolts a bit to the right on Conspiracy and seeing a directional in the top of the crack. A number four works well for the directional. Mar 17, 2014
Ky Harkey  
BD #.75-#4 Mar 31, 2013
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
Short and sharp. Tape up. Sep 28, 2012
Fresno, CA
nickehman   Fresno, CA
pro is easy and always available. jamming is very straightforward and very fun. very fun for my first trad lead. May 24, 2012
Boulder, CO
talkinrocks   Boulder, CO
Great route, albeit short. Good practice crack for the budding 5.9 hand jammer. If this crack went on for another 150 feet, it would be one of the sweetest pitches ever. Besides everything in Yosemite. Eats up #2 camalots. May 24, 2009