Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Chris Lyons
Page Views: 4,925 total · 33/month
Shared By: Chris Tarbet on Dec 28, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

48 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


Texas Crude is a fantastic steep crack that is easily protected and soaks up many slightly tight hand jams.


Texas Crude is one of the far left climbs on the East Face. Find Fear of Flying (splitter, tall, and wide crack in dihedral), and look left for steep hand crack that begins on a small boulder step.


Bring a small E-Rock rack heavy on the #1 Camalots. There are no anchors up top, but you can scramble up and far right to find the descent trail, which leads you to the far right base of the East Face.


Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
Best practice for jamming in the park. Run many laps on this so you can be strong when you get out of texas. Jun 22, 2007
Bjorn   WNC
I have always felt this is the best crack in the Fear of Flying alcove and one of the best in the park. Kicks FOF's ass for sheer crack climbing bliss. Mar 25, 2009
I belayed the first ascent. Chris insisted on doing it barefoot. Crude indeed.... Aug 6, 2012
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, TH
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, TH
You're gonna wanna tape up for this one. Great climb! Jan 15, 2016
Dom R
Bend, OR
Dom R   Bend, OR
There's a good horn of rock on the flake slab thing above the route to build an anchor for belaying up a second. Doubled up from .75-2 with one 3 and one 4 for this. Didn't need them all
But that felt like a comfortable rack for me. Nov 30, 2016