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Routes in East Face of Buzzard's Roost

Aquatic Anxiety T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Shrike T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Snatch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Texas Crude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Chris Lyons
Page Views: 4,020 total, 30/month
Shared By: sirhctrebor on Dec 28, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Texas Crude is a fantastic steep crack that is easily protected and soaks up many slightly tight hand jams.

Location

Texas Crude is one of the far left climbs on the East Face. Find Fear of Flying (splitter, tall, and wide crack in dihedral), and look left for steep hand crack that begins on a small boulder step.

Protection

Bring a small E-Rock rack heavy on the #1 Camalots. There are no anchors up top, but you can scramble up and far right to find the descent trail, which leads you to the far right base of the East Face.

Photos

Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
 
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
 
There's a good horn of rock on the flake slab thing above the route to build an anchor for belaying up a second. Doubled up from .75-2 with one 3 and one 4 for this. Didn't need them all
But that felt like a comfortable rack for me. Nov 30, 2016
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10-
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10-
You're gonna wanna tape up for this one. Great climb! Jan 15, 2016
I belayed the first ascent. Chris insisted on doing it barefoot. Crude indeed.... Aug 6, 2012
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
I have always felt this is the best crack in the Fear of Flying alcove and one of the best in the park. Kicks FOF's ass for sheer crack climbing bliss. Mar 25, 2009
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
Best practice for jamming in the park. Run many laps on this so you can be strong when you get out of texas. Jun 22, 2007