Mountain Project Logo

Routes in East Face of Buzzard's Roost

Aquatic Anxiety T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Shrike T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Snatch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Texas Crude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Robert Price
Page Views: 1,641 total · 12/month
Shared By: Joshua Merriam on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

A pebble pinching slabby bolted face. Balancy movement.

Location

a few feet to the right of the hand crack (Little Feat) on the upper East side of buzzards roost

Protection

3? bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is bad fall potential at the second bolt.

Photos

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
Last time I got on this, it still had deacking potential while clipping, has it been retroed? Jun 28, 2007
Bats
Texas
  5.10b PG13
Bats   Texas
  5.10b PG13
Nope...its still has decking potential from the first bolt to the second bolt. May 29, 2011
Nick Ehman
Bloomington, IN
 
Nick Ehman   Bloomington, IN
 
some tense crystal pinching. theres definitely decking potential, but the fall wouldnt be all that serious. Not compared to other routes at erock May 24, 2012
Ryan Levihn-Coon
Austin, Texas
 
Ryan Levihn-Coon   Austin, Texas
 
Ditto on the decking potential. A fat crash pad would ease the heathead game. Two top-rope bolts with a ton of rope drag for such a short route.

Love it or hate it, I absolutely love this route. Besides being short, to me it's got what E-Rock sport face climbing is all-about--head leads, standing/pulling on cuddle, decking potential that's real (so don't fall...)... Mar 17, 2014

More About Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go)

Printer-Friendly