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Routes in Ken Black Memorial Dome

Blackheart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blackjack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blackout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Chicken Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fryer Flyers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Holiday In The Sun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lewis Black T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pacific Avenue Dorm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pitch Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poultry Pilots T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powdered Toast Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Rick Guerrieri and Dave Evans, October 1989
Page Views: 83 total · 1/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on May 25, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This along with Blackheart are located on the nice looking "3-tiered" face on the far left side of the Ken Black formation. Easily visible from the road. This is the righthand line passing a couple of bolts to a two bolt anchor/rap


Couple of cams to go with the bolts.


C Miller
  5.10d PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d PG13
Decent enough climbing, but nothing special. The pro seemed adequate and doesn't merit an R rating, and the crux is lower than indicated on the beta photo. May 25, 2007
Russ Walling
  5.11a R
Russ Walling
  5.11a R
Hard, grainy, and sequential moves around the first bolt. The R rating probably comes from the opportunity to place some really small gear in an overlap, right about the height you could deck from. There is pro available in the horizontal break (1.5" cam and a big nut?) before the second bolt. In-obvious
moves at the second bolt are pretty hard and grainy. Place some more pro in the next horizontal (1" - 2") and then share the anchor with Blackheart. I TR'd it.

Note: This route has only two bolts, not 3 as shown in the old Stackhouse beta photo. May 21, 2014
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Sorry about the topo inaccuracies. I usually, at a minimum, get the bolts right. I'll go back and edit this one. Thanks Russ May 25, 2014

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