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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Rdsi…
> Ken Black Memorial Dome
Blackout
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 1.9 from 7
votes
Routes in Ken Black Memorial Dome
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Blackheads T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Blackheart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blackjack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blackout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Chicken Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fryer Flyers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Holiday In The Sun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Lewis Black T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pacific Avenue Dorm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pacific Heights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Pitch Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poultry Pilots T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Powdered Toast Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02795, -116.17773 |
| FA: | Todd Swain, Rick Guerrieri and Dave Evans, October 1989 |
| Page Views: | 873 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Stackhouse on May 25, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This along with Blackheart are located on the nice looking "3-tiered" face on the far left side of the Ken Black Memorial Dome formation. The face is visible from the paved pullout on the south side of the road. This is the righthand line passing a couple of bolts to a two-bolt rappel anchor.
Protection
Hard, grainy, and sequential moves around the first bolt. The R rating comes from the opportunity to place some really small gear in an overlap, right about the height you could deck from. There is pro available in the horizontal break (1.5" cam and a big nut?) before the second bolt. The moves at the second bolt are pretty hard and grainy. Place some more pro in the next horizontal (1" - 2") and then share the anchor with Blackheart.
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