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Routes in Ken Black Memorial Dome

Blackheart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blackjack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blackout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Chicken Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fryer Flyers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Holiday In The Sun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lewis Black T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pacific Avenue Dorm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pitch Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poultry Pilots T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powdered Toast Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, Yvonne Gaines, December 1995
Page Views: 1,888 total, 14/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Feb 6, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

7 bolt sport climb between Pitch Black and Holiday in the Sun.

Location

Southeast facing. Morning to midday sun, late afternoon shade.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 bolt lower-off anchor.

Photos

kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
For the follower/2nd on blackjack

Place a .4 grey C4 at the base of the crack so that if the second falls on the lieback moves after in clipping the last bolt they don't swing far to the left and have to go up the easier left way or work hard to swing back to the bolt Mar 22, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
Really fun route, and very well-bolted.

A #1 or #2 camalot before the first bolt, and I placed a green C3 and a medium nut at the top.

Crux is definitely delicate, the rest is super positive edging up the steep wall. Feb 1, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d
A great sport route that's literally one minute from the road. Starts up an easy, left-slanting crack/flake (optional pro if you feel the need) to a well bolted vertical face with crimps and delicate footwork. It finishes up a short section of perfect handcrack (again, optional pro if you desire) to sport anchors on a small ledge. For those climbing even reasonably comfortably at the grade nothing more than quickdraws are needed. Three stars out of five. Mar 20, 2007