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Routes in Ken Black Memorial Dome

Blackheart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blackjack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blackout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Chicken Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fryer Flyers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Holiday In The Sun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lewis Black T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pacific Avenue Dorm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pitch Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poultry Pilots T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powdered Toast Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bill Cramer, Michelle Cramer & Mike Shacklett, November 1992
Page Views: 374 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 29, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An OK route that makes a good warm-up. Start in the low-angle slot on good rock and good pro to go up to a small shrub on the climb. Look right to see a bolt on the face to the right and clip that. Climb up and right past that bolt (crux) to continue up the face, wandering around for the best holds and eventually left, for the second bolt and finish, or to the right to join Chicken Mechanics (more trad gear). The route is a reasonable warm up and fin overall.

Location

Just left of the base of Chicken Mechanics, there is a right facing corner that contains a low angle slot. The route starts in this slot.

Protection

A standard trad rack with some longer runners and a few bolts to clip. If you stay right after the first bolt and join Chicken Mechanics, it takes more gear, so double cams are optional.

Photos

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Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.8
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.8
When I did this route yesterday, I apparently did an alternative finish. Guide book says climb a gully 5th class then up to a face on the right with some huecos and 2 bolts (per guide book photo). Apparently someone added an extra bolt before you get to the huecos.

The first and only bolt I clipped made for some very airy moves going onto the face. The crux of the climb is clipping and passing this lone bolt then onto some fun face climbing protected by a crack to the top. Use #3 and #2 C4s for anchor. Nothing smaller will fit. Jan 31, 2017
Gunkswest   CA
The "slot" mentioned in the description might also be called a "gully." You climb up the gully about 30 feet to the second (and larger) of two bushes. Directly to the right of the upper bush on the main face is a bolt.

Climb up past the bolt on decent scoops to reach a vertical crack where you can get gear. Continue up and then left along the crack/flake to the summit, or better yet, clip the final bolt on Pacific Ave Dorm to protect exposed moves to the summit.

You'll need cams bigger than a gold Camalot for the anchor (ie: blue, grey & purple).

Down climb the west face of the formation along a low angled crack. Scramble down boulders toward the road to reach the base of the formation. Apr 4, 2014