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Routes in Ken Black Memorial Dome

Blackheart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blackjack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blackout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Chicken Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fryer Flyers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Holiday In The Sun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lewis Black T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pacific Avenue Dorm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pitch Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poultry Pilots T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powdered Toast Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Brian Sillasen and Todd Gordon, May 1986
Page Views: 730 total, 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This route has a fun crux overhang with a clean finger crack above.

Location

to the right of the center of the formation

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.9
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.9
Lets just say this is Josh 5.9. The roof definitely surprised me, along with the group of climbers that did it right before me (Brad Young and David Harden from the Sonora area and their friend Bill).

I would go back and climb this. It was fun Jan 31, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Roof? yeah I'd still call that a roof. Getting to the roof was somewhat complicated particularly when the leader pros to the left. Some down climbing, quiet prayers and extreme skill-set can put you on course for a few pretty fun moves.

The rock quality was so-so but overall I pseudo liked the route and would do it again. That said, I rapped from the top and my partner did the walk off. Where exactly is the anchor fairy these days?

No complaints about the approach or aspect, both were perfect for late afternoons in the summer...thanks Todd. May 10, 2010
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I agree with Russ;....when we did the first ascent of this pile, I was not all that impressed myself. I has a few good qualities;...it is rock climbing, and it is fun....that's about all I have to say about this one...It had a big all spiny nolina growing in it too.....and the roof;...well;..the roof is all of 10" big...is that a roof?.... May 9, 2010
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Starts in an alcove with a shoddy looking mini roof about 10 feet up. Awkward moves over this rooflet lead to quasi ok rock and a left leaning hand crack. Somewhere in there you will pass a Nolina (thanks Todd) that is determined to poke you in the neck. Follow the poor to fair rock up and left on easy ground. Now you have a dilemma. Continue up the loose and grainy crack to the real summit, jump from here and cut your losses, or go up the 3 bolt face Pacific Ave Dorm, which is pretty good. No bolts on top. Anchor takes 3" pro. Down climb and scramble off the summit over the back and then to climbers right. One star is generous. May 9, 2010