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Routes in Butcher's Branch

All The Right Moves S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bag, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bicycle Club S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Boing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bourbon Sauce S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Control S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flight of the Gumby S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Piece, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardcore Female Thrash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jumpin' Ring Snakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another Glitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kaos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lost Souls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mo' Betta' Holds S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Play it by Ear S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sancho Belige S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Springer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stop Pulling My Ear (Arppeggio) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Gelnn Ritter August '91
Page Views: 2,634 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 25, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Steep slab with very few positive holds in the crux that are placed just so that you really have to trust your feet.

The climb starts with some easy 5.5ish climbing and contiues almost all the ay to the roof, then you are hit by the crux. The crux comes just before the anchors with one long move that goes at 5.9+ but is very scary (for sport climbing).
Edited to add* While now I don't see this climb as scary, especially because the bolt is right there, I remember being quite scared the first time I led this one. Also the first time I led it the crimp right after the crux was super slick with green goo, and my hand blew off twice before I could latch the hold.

Delicate moves that rely far more on balance than strenght will guide you up this one, remember to use the force to levitate up the holds on this climb.

Location

Right most route on the slab section.

Protection

6 bolts to Cold Shuts.

Photos

Jacob Sustrich
  5.10b
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.10b
If you like slab, get on this climb immediately. If you don't like slab, get on it anyways because it's awesome. Climbing up to the fourth bolt is pretty ledgy and easy, crux is a little nervewracking if you're not solid on slab. Try not to drag all the way down if you fall.

Crux will be made significantly easier if you're tall or if you have very skinny fingers.

Highly recommended! May 26, 2015
Reu Wilson
Philadelphia, PA
  5.10a/b
Reu Wilson   Philadelphia, PA
  5.10a/b
The fourth bolt is a spinner.
40ft of easy climbing, then after the fourth bolt things change quickly to true slab. Bad crimps and glassed feet make the crux moves tricky. Possibly a full/half grade easier if tall. Aug 28, 2018

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