Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gary Beil, Doug Cosby 1991
Page Views: 13,478 total · 93/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

369 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details


This climb starts on the right wall of the obvious huge left facing corner of Butcher's branch. Grab some jugs right off the ground and muscle your way up to better holds moving toward the arete as you go. About halfway up you'll traverse to the right side of the arete utilizing a small ledge. Follow the bolts up as the moves get more balancy and sequence dependent.

Classic climb that usually has a little line. A full-value route.


Arete on the right side of the obivous left facing corner of Butcher's Branch.


9 bolts to two bolt anchor.


Jacob Sustrich
Jacob Sustrich  
There are great rests along pretty much the entire route. A bit heady for a 5.9 but all in all great fun. I wouldn't make this your first lead, or first 5.9, but if you're confident in the grade you'll do fine. Watch for a couple X's on blocks along the way. When you get to the last bolt, make a plan before you go unless you wanna stay true to the name! May 26, 2015
Johnny Francisco
Crested Butte, CO
Johnny Francisco   Crested Butte, CO
Goes easily and safely on gear, TCUs grey thru red are particularly useful. A little more "spice" because you'll be making the "flight" move with a blue alien at your feet. . . But it's bomber and backed up by a green Camalot not too far below. Good, low committment entry into gear protected face climbing (if you're freaking out, there are bolts there to clip). Jun 10, 2015
Stephen Montgomery
Washington DC
Stephen Montgomery   Washington DC
Super fun route. No defined crux in my opinion, just sustained. Nov 27, 2015
Joe Whittlesey
Durham, NC
Joe Whittlesey   Durham, NC
I've probably climbed this a dozen times now over the years, it is still enjoyable. Nov 8, 2016
Eugenel Espiritu
Eugenel Espiritu   PA
Stop putting X's on this route. May 13, 2018
Pat Kohlbrenner
Pat Kohlbrenner   Pittsburgh
But how will I know where the holds are without the X's? May 15, 2018