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Routes in Butcher's Branch

All The Right Moves S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bag, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bicycle Club S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Boing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bourbon Sauce S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Control S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flight of the Gumby S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Piece, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardcore Female Thrash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jumpin' Ring Snakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another Glitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kaos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lost Souls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mo' Betta' Holds S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Play it by Ear S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sancho Belige S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Springer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stop Pulling My Ear (Arppeggio) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed (1991)
Page Views: 2,628 total, 25/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Apr 26, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This climb is so much fun! Start by climbing up the small right facing corner to gain a stance. Traverse right and up a few feet to clip the second bolt with a fixed chain draw. Climb straight over a very shallow left facing corner (technical crux) to gain a nice stance below the roof. From here, follow excellent jug holds into the roof and head right using the large flake in the roof to gain a stance. Continue straight up, eventually finishing on the arete to reach the anchors. This is more of an endurance climb than it is technical. All the holds after the 3rd bolt are jugs.

The description for this route in the Wolverine guidebook says "Dangle out to the 'trash can lid' then throw them jugs to the ground on your way to the slabby top out." This part of the route is now on the ground.

Location

This is the 4th bolted line to the right of Flight of the Gumbie. The route starts under the large roof. This is climb to the right of Kaos, 5.12c.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts.

Photos

zachj
 
zachj  
 
This route feels much harder than 11c with the trash can lid missing. Holds are still there and the route is still a lot of fun, but I would argue for at least 11d if not 12a (based on having climbed a lot of the routes in this area). Oct 16, 2017
As noted, trash can lid is now on the ground. There's another big flake right next to where the old one used to be, pretty far out right but if you're tall it'll work. From what I understand, it seems like it doesn't seem much more stable than the last one. Be careful with this one, especially the belayer. Grade is definitely bumped up a bit, but I don't think there's a consensus. I'd assume 11d-12a maybe. Aug 10, 2015