Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed (1991)
Page Views: 2,848 total · 24/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Apr 26, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This climb is so much fun! Start by climbing up the small right facing corner to gain a stance. Traverse right and up a few feet to clip the second bolt with a fixed chain draw. Climb straight over a very shallow left facing corner (technical crux) to gain a nice stance below the roof. From here, follow excellent jug holds into the roof and head right using the large flake in the roof to gain a stance. Continue straight up, eventually finishing on the arete to reach the anchors. This is more of an endurance climb than it is technical. All the holds after the 3rd bolt are jugs.

The description for this route in the Wolverine guidebook says "Dangle out to the 'trash can lid' then throw them jugs to the ground on your way to the slabby top out." This part of the route is now on the ground.

Location

This is the 4th bolted line to the right of Flight of the Gumbie. The route starts under the large roof. This is climb to the right of Kaos, 5.12c.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts.

Photos

As noted, trash can lid is now on the ground. There's another big flake right next to where the old one used to be, pretty far out right but if you're tall it'll work. From what I understand, it seems like it doesn't seem much more stable than the last one. Be careful with this one, especially the belayer. Grade is definitely bumped up a bit, but I don't think there's a consensus. I'd assume 11d-12a maybe. Aug 10, 2015
zachj F
 
zachj F  
 
This route feels much harder than 11c with the trash can lid missing. Holds are still there and the route is still a lot of fun, but I would argue for at least 11d if not 12a (based on having climbed a lot of the routes in this area). Oct 16, 2017
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Pumpiest of the 3 - 11's on the wall, but the shortest. Not technically hard, you just have to have the guns to hold the roof crimps and fall into the trash can. Aug 9, 2018