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Routes in Wizard Rock

Christal Ball S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Driven Like the Snow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Wand S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ruff T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Snow Crash S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two in the Bush T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Uncertain Fates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wave Yer Wand T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Way of the Wizard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wide Jadodat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Jerry Bargo, 5/07.
Page Views: 122 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 21, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The route is distinguished by the fingercracks about 2/3 of the way up, just right of the arete of Snow Crash. These are the crux is tackled directly, but it is also just as easy to move right and fight with a small bush for the 5.6 moves just there.

The Title of the route comes from A Sisters Of Mercy tune of the same title:
"Like a voice in the wind blows little crystals down
Like brittle things will break before they turn
Like lipstick on my cigarette and the ice get harder overhead
Like think it twice but never never learn..."

Location

This route ascends the line of discontinuous cracks just right of Snow Crash. It is the line you rap/lower down to the right of the anchor if you go off to the right.

Protection

About 20' to the first gear placement (2" cam) and then good gear here and there to the top. The crux protects well with small cams or Aliens, perhaps 0.5 or 0.75". Take some longer runners in case you want to wander for the most gear possible.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
I did not see any loose blocks on this. You can clip the first two bolts on Snow Crash at the bottom where there is not much gear. Jul 9, 2013
Tradsplatter
Boulder, CO
Tradsplatter   Boulder, CO
Climbed this excellent choss pile on 8/8/07. Accurate description of runout start...pretty mossy slab start but not too scary. Be on lookout for loose blocks. Fun crux section, reasonably good gear. Climbing is not too difficult..the real crux is making sure you don't peel blocks off this route. Nice new route...you get the alpine experience without the altitude! Aug 18, 2007