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Routes in Wizard Rock

Christal Ball S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Driven Like the Snow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Wand S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ruff T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Snow Crash S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two in the Bush T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Uncertain Fates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wave Yer Wand T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Way of the Wizard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wide Jadodat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: R. Rossiter, solo, 2001
Page Views: 115 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 21, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a good route, and it is fairly long.

Climb intermittent cracks from 0.5-2.5" up a rib of rock to the summit of Wizard Rock. Up top, wander a few meters South to the anchors atop the right-most sport climb on the cliff for a descent or even belay. From that, bolted belay pictures of the second following would be excellent.

Be mindful of possible loose blocks near the top.

Location

This route starts about 10 meters right of the beginning of 'Snow Crash' on a ledge right of the end of a tree-stump.

Protection

A mixed rack from nuts to cams. Nothing bigger than 3" used on the F.A. Take some longer slings.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
There is lots of loose rock on this route, but it is avoidable. Tony is correct, you get good pictures from the bolted belay. Jul 18, 2013
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Tony,

The side of Wizard Rock with Christal Ball, Magic Wand, Snow Crash, etc. faces west, not north. Boulder Canyon runs north-south from Bell Buttress to Vampire Rock, as shown in this photo:



The crags on the east side of the creek, including Solaris, Wizard Rock, Avalon, and The Watermark, are predominantly west facing.

I think Right Arete climbs the prominent, narrow rib of rock right of Snow Crash, at the junction of the west and south faces, as shown in this photo:

Sep 5, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
"Where is this route in relation to Richard Rossiter's Right Arete?"

Good question. Rossiter says:
"Right Arete 6
FA: Richard Rossiter, solo, 2001. Scramble up and around to the west side of the crag. Follow a norrow rib to the top. Walk off."

I would not have described the climb as being on the West Side, but maybe he would have. Perhaps more elaboration on the matter?

Richard? Are these indeed the same? Sep 5, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Where is this route in relation to Richard Rossiter's Right Arete? See boulderclimbs.com/wizard.html. Sep 5, 2007
Tradsplatter
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Tradsplatter   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Beautiful views of Boulder Canyon at the top. Loose blocks are easy to find, be extra careful. Fun climbing, used three smaller tri-cams, handful of nuts, a couple small hexes, and 0.5 - #2 Camalot. Dislodged one softball-sized, portable foothold that meteored to the ground. Belayer is advised to stay well out of rockfall for this route. Rating felt accurate. Plenty of lichen and choss to be had for the connoisseur. Aug 17, 2007