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Routes in Wizard Rock

Christal Ball S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Driven Like the Snow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Wand S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ruff T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Snow Crash S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two in the Bush T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Uncertain Fates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wave Yer Wand T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Way of the Wizard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wide Jadodat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: gecko
Page Views: 155 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is another line just to the left of Way of the Wizard by about 30 feet. Start near a brief, finger crack to a ledge. Go up a left-facing dihedral of sorts on interesting scoops to gain a crack system. Note, there is a substantial flake on the left about 30 feet up which sounds solid but appears to be resting on a small base. Gain the ridge line and shuffle to the right to the anchors for Way of the Wizard. Beware, there is a down-pointing, triangular block below the ridgeline traverse whose stability may be questionable. Rap.

While it is possible that this is the same route as Way of the Lizard, it seems unlikely that this line could be mistaken for 5.7. My best guess is that Way of the Lizard may be between Wizard Shuffle and Two in the Bush.

Location [Suggest Change]

This lies about 30 feet left of Way of the Wizard.

Protection [Suggest Change]

To #3 Camalot. A 60m rope is nice.


Jay Eggleston
  5.5 PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.5 PG13
The big flake mentioned in the description is still there. It is easy to avoid touching it while climbing the route. Jul 9, 2013

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