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Routes in Wizard Rock

Christal Ball S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Driven Like the Snow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Wand S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ruff T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Snow Crash S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two in the Bush T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Uncertain Fates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wave Yer Wand T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Way of the Wizard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wide Jadodat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, 5/07 (?)
Page Views: 146 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 21, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details


Wide Jadodat?
A Midwestern colloquialism for "Why did you do that?"
"Because it was there."

This climb might make a great intro to O.W. climbing, except there are so many face holds that you never really climb the crack. At least it is a good corner for its very short length, but barely worth doing.

To descend, walk/scramble off to the East.


At the left end of Wizard Rock, well left of the gully left of the left-most sport routes, there is a short buttress with a shallow, right-facing corner. A tree grows out of this corner, perhaps 4 meters up, and beyond that point, a fist to wide crack goes to the top.


FA was free-solo, but a few wide cams would protect the climb just fine. A long sling (2'+) could beused on the tree stump, then maybe a #3 Camalot before reaching the wider crack above (old style #4 Camalot). The top would take a very large stopper or medium hex.



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