Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: R. Rossiter, Solo, 1998
Page Views: 368 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 9, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Start on the ground a few meters Right of Magic Wand and climb up 3-4 meters to a thin crack (good small nuts), then up a face past small cam placements, then bigger ones. Aim for just left of a solitary small dead tree. After passing this, and just below the top, step left and follow a right-leaning crack with some solid flakes in it to come eye-to-eye level with the anchors on 'Magic Wand' which are just to your left. The last bit is the crux and protects well.

This is the best trad line at the crag and one of the better lines over all.

Location

This route ascends the face just right of 'Magic Wand' on natural features and protection. The gear is better than it would appear from the ground and does not require runouts or much craftiness.

Protection

Good gear. Take a light rack from small/med nuts and cams to 3.5"

Photos