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Routes in Wizard Rock

Christal Ball S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Driven Like the Snow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Wand S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ruff T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Snow Crash S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two in the Bush T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Uncertain Fates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wave Yer Wand T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Way of the Wizard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wide Jadodat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: R. Rossiter, Solo, 1998
Page Views: 185 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 9, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Start on the ground a few meters Right of Magic Wand and climb up 3-4 meters to a thin crack (good small nuts), then up a face past small cam placements, then bigger ones. Aim for just left of a solitary small dead tree. After passing this, and just below the top, step left and follow a right-leaning crack with some solid flakes in it to come eye-to-eye level with the anchors on 'Magic Wand' which are just to your left. The last bit is the crux and protects well.

This is the best trad line at the crag and one of the better lines over all.

Location

This route ascends the face just right of 'Magic Wand' on natural features and protection. The gear is better than it would appear from the ground and does not require runouts or much craftiness.

Protection

Good gear. Take a light rack from small/med nuts and cams to 3.5"

Photos

Tradsplatter
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Tradsplatter   Boulder, CO
  5.6
Lead this pitch today. Thought middle section below dead tree was runout but could be I just didn't look enough for pro. Still, a fun moderate line. Very convenient trad line with the top anchors from Magic Wand. Good gear and cool route. Aug 18, 2007
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.6
I think this route has good gear. I only used cams, no nuts, and no section felt run-out. Jul 5, 2013

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