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Petrified Bear's Dick
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A2
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in The Three Penguins
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Anorexia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Greater Wrong of the Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Petrified Bear's Dick 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 |
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Right Chimney T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Aid, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, Margie Floyd, Maryann Loehr, April , 1998 |
| Page Views: | 2,099 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Gordon on May 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This climb ascents the opposite side of the rock as the Right Chimney Route....as the crack system goes all the way through to the other side. The climb starts out at a steep bulge (on rotten rock too!), then goes into a wide section for miles. It's not a very good route...(They all can't be classics!)....but we did it anyways;... we were curious about it;...it's quite obvious a line. what makes it suck even more, is that the Right Chimney route is so GOOD, and it's just around the corner.....I doubt if this climb has seen a 2nd ascent.....(It don't hurt my feelings that this climb is un-loved...)...We did it in two pitches...break up "the fun.!"...I believe I used a pin or two at the start...maybe I left them...I can't remember......(sorry...). The route name is better than "the Right Chimney", and we got it from a visit to Lin Ottenger's Rock shop in Moab... he just HAD to show us a (you guessed it...) petrified Bear's dick.
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