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Routes in The Three Penguins

Anorexia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Greater Wrong of the Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Petrified Bear's Dick 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Right Chimney T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Aid, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Gordon, Margie Floyd, Maryann Loehr, April , 1998
Page Views: 1,057 total · 8/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 3, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb ascents the opposite side of the rock as the Right Chimney Route....as the crack system goes all the way through to the other side. The climb starts out at a steep bulge (on rotten rock too!), then goes into a wide section for miles. It's not a very good route...(They all can't be classics!)....but we did it anyways;... we were curious about it;...it's quite obvious a line. what makes it suck even more, is that the Right Chimney route is so GOOD, and it's just around the corner.....I doubt if this climb has seen a 2nd ascent.....(It don't hurt my feelings that this climb is un-loved...)...We did it in two pitches...break up "the fun.!"...I believe I used a pin or two at the start...maybe I left them...I can't remember......(sorry...). The route name is better than "the Right Chimney", and we got it from a visit to Lin Ottenger's Rock shop in Moab... he just HAD to show us a (you guessed it...) petrified Bear's dick.

Location

backside of the Three Penguins.

Protection

Maybe a few pins, and some wide pieces to slide along up the OWth.

Photos

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