All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP > Three Penguins

Petrified Bear's Dick

Name: Petrified Bear's Dick
Rating: 1.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A2

Routes in The Three Penguins

	Anorexia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Greater Wrong of the Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Petrified Bear's Dick 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
	Right Chimney T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Aid, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	38.61925, -109.61802
FA:	Todd Gordon, Margie Floyd, Maryann Loehr, April , 1998
Page Views:	2,164 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Todd Gordon on May 3, 2007
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

This climb ascents the opposite side of the rock as the Right Chimney Route....as the crack system goes all the way through to the other side. The climb starts out at a steep bulge (on rotten rock too!), then goes into a wide section for miles. It's not a very good route...(They all can't be classics!)....but we did it anyways;... we were curious about it;...it's quite obvious a line. what makes it suck even more, is that the Right Chimney route is so GOOD, and it's just around the corner.....I doubt if this climb has seen a 2nd ascent.....(It don't hurt my feelings that this climb is un-loved...)...We did it in two pitches...break up "the fun.!"...I believe I used a pin or two at the start...maybe I left them...I can't remember......(sorry...). The route name is better than "the Right Chimney", and we got it from a visit to Lin Ottenger's Rock shop in Moab... he just HAD to show us a (you guessed it...) petrified Bear's dick.