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Petrified Bear's Dick
5.9 A2,
Aid, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
FA: Todd Gordon, Margie Floyd, Maryann Loehr, April , 1998
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Arches NP
> Three Penguins
Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This climb ascents the opposite side of the rock as the Right Chimney Route....as the crack system goes all the way through to the other side. The climb starts out at a steep bulge (on rotten rock too!), then goes into a wide section for miles. It's not a very good route...(They all can't be classics!)....but we did it anyways;... we were curious about it;...it's quite obvious a line. what makes it suck even more, is that the Right Chimney route is so GOOD, and it's just around the corner.....I doubt if this climb has seen a 2nd ascent.....(It don't hurt my feelings that this climb is un-loved...)...We did it in two pitches...break up "the fun.!"...I believe I used a pin or two at the start...maybe I left them...I can't remember......(sorry...). The route name is better than "the Right Chimney", and we got it from a visit to Lin Ottenger's Rock shop in Moab... he just HAD to show us a (you guessed it...) petrified Bear's dick.
Location
backside of the Three Penguins.
Protection
Maybe a few pins, and some wide pieces to slide along up the OWth.
[Hide Photo] Party on the summit. Photo; Todd Gordon collection.
[Hide Photo] Three Penguins. Photo; Todd Gordon collection.
[Hide Photo] Comfy belay top pitch one (Who wants to hang in their harness?...not me...). Photo; Todd Gordon
WY