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Petrified Bear's Dick

5.9 A2, Aid, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: Todd Gordon, Margie Floyd, Maryann Loehr, April , 1998
Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP > Three Penguins
Warning Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

This climb ascents the opposite side of the rock as the Right Chimney Route....as the crack system goes all the way through to the other side. The climb starts out at a steep bulge (on rotten rock too!), then goes into a wide section for miles. It's not a very good route...(They all can't be classics!)....but we did it anyways;... we were curious about it;...it's quite obvious a line. what makes it suck even more, is that the Right Chimney route is so GOOD, and it's just around the corner.....I doubt if this climb has seen a 2nd ascent.....(It don't hurt my feelings that this climb is un-loved...)...We did it in two pitches...break up "the fun.!"...I believe I used a pin or two at the start...maybe I left them...I can't remember......(sorry...). The route name is better than "the Right Chimney", and we got it from a visit to Lin Ottenger's Rock shop in Moab... he just HAD to show us a (you guessed it...) petrified Bear's dick.

Location

backside of the Three Penguins.

Protection

Maybe a few pins, and some wide pieces to slide along up the OWth.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Party on the summit.  Photo;  Todd Gordon collection.
[Hide Photo] Party on the summit. Photo; Todd Gordon collection.
Three Penguins.  Photo;  Todd Gordon collection.
[Hide Photo] Three Penguins. Photo; Todd Gordon collection.
Comfy belay top pitch one    (Who wants to hang in their harness?...not me...).  Photo; Todd Gordon
[Hide Photo] Comfy belay top pitch one (Who wants to hang in their harness?...not me...). Photo; Todd Gordon

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I'm not sure how I found this but this is one of the best route names I've ever heard May 6, 2019
[Hide Comment] i am pretty sure you found this when you were searching for something that your IT department is going to blackmail you over. best delete them cookies youngblood! May 6, 2019