Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Michael Kennedy & Molly Higgins - 1976
Page Views: 11,430 total · 54/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 18, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is pretty darn good, especially if you like off-widths.

Approach up talus and across a ledge system from the right of the formation. Head around the base to the left - this is the first crack system in a dihedral you come to. The first pitch of the route basically starts at fingers and works its way to fists - the crux being getting over the obvious bulge. Belay at fixed anchors 2/3 the way up the tower. The last third of the tower is a delightful struggle up a flaring off-width - the definite crux of the route. "Chimney" is a misnomer for this thing, the only thing I could squeeze in there were chicken wings and knees.

Two ropes gets you completely off the route, but it looked feasible to do it in two, single rope rappels.

Protection

One each 0.5 to #4 Camalots. Maybe a few extra hand-size pieces. No stoppers.

Photos