Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Three Penguins

Anorexia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Greater Wrong of the Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Petrified Bear's Dick 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Right Chimney T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Michael Kennedy & Molly Higgins - 1976
Page Views: 9,299 total, 52/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 18, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


97 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is pretty darn good, especially if you like off-widths.

Approach up talus and across a ledge system from the right of the formation. Head around the base to the left - this is the first crack system in a dihedral you come to. The first pitch of the route basically starts at fingers and works its way to fists - the crux being getting over the obvious bulge. Belay at fixed anchors 2/3 the way up the tower. The last third of the tower is a delightful struggle up a flaring off-width - the definite crux of the route. "Chimney" is a misnomer for this thing, the only thing I could squeeze in there were chicken wings and knees.

Two ropes gets you completely off the route, but it looked feasible to do it in two, single rope rappels.

Protection

One each 0.5 to #4 Camalots. Maybe a few extra hand-size pieces. No stoppers.
I heard there was a rescue on this route a few weeks back? Stuck knee. Heard oil of some sort was poured on it and a drill was also taken to it. Can anyone confirm the damage? Apr 3, 2016
Michael Dom  
 
What an awesome, and grueling route. Bring two fives. I only had one and although it was safe, I certainly wasn't excited about pulling those final moves on that offwidth. Dec 22, 2015
Vincent K
Boulder, CO
Vincent K   Boulder, CO
Excessive P2 gear beta: #2 and #3 for lower section, a #4 for the middle, 2 #5s for the offwidth, and a #3 to protect the top out should make it comfortable. You can get a #6 to work at the flare, but it is a little too big. The 2 #5s should negate the need for the #6. Be sure to extend the #3 protecting the topout to let the rope run freer over the bulge below. Oct 27, 2015
RAPPEL BETA**

So I've found after doing this climb a few times it's quite nice to double rope rap (70's) straight down to the road from the summit. 2 60's might work as well? Can somebody let me know.

It's nice to skip the down hike by adding the extra rap.

Also, 1 70m rope gets you from the summit back down to the ledge easily, as stated. Feb 19, 2014
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.10b/c
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.10b/c
I led the P2 OW. Crux of it was extracting my leg as my calf kept getting stuck. Second pitch is much sandier than the first, so I think a lot of people rappel after only doing P1 :-) Nov 22, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Fun route. Enjoyed having 3 #3 camalots on pitch 1, and don't leave the ground without a #5 camalot or you will regret it for pitch 2. The spicy move onto the summit isn't bad at all, just grab the chains and pull yourself up! The tower is short, so 1 70m rope will get you down in one rap. Nov 19, 2012
Zeb Rafaker
Moab
 
Zeb Rafaker   Moab
 
The old #4 and new #5 were the perfect combo to finish the offwidth. Top out wasn't scary at all with a #3.5 and #1. The 70m rope reached with a little to spare. Apr 27, 2012
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
really fun route with good rock. the comments above are pretty accurate. both pitches seemed pretty comparable in difficulty. first pitch is really fun fingers/thin hands to big hands through a bulge, then low angled fists to the anchor.

second pitch looks kind of intimidating. it is a bit steep and the feet look sandy, but didn't seem too slippery. the OW section is pretty easy and you can push a pair of 4.5 camalot/5 friend/new #5 camalot sized pieces very easily. most of the time i couldn't get my knee in. at 2 locations i barely could, and got my knee stuck as hell. i mean REALLY stuck. kind of scary stuck. the second time was at the top and my knee was literally bonelocked into place. i was above gear with both arms chickenwinging in front of me, trying to pull my knee out.

when you get up to the top out section, there is kind of a WTF moment, but luckily there are features in just the right places so that it works out OK.

2 single rope raps with the 70 got us down. rack was a double set from .5 camalot to old 4.5 camalot, which was more than enough. Oct 25, 2011
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.10-
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.10-
I found both pitchs to be 5.10a....and quite good!

josh Apr 26, 2009
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
Maybe an old #5 is too big, but I fit two new #5's in the second pitch.

Oh, and the powdered rock at the base of the climb feels fantastic on bare feet. Apr 13, 2009
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
  5.10+
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
  5.10+
From this redneck's perspective, George Bell's comment above is oh so right...

Regarding the gear....
Once you are in #5 territory, you can't fall out...or at least me and my 145 lb. arse couldn't...

Nevertheless, I'd have placed another #4 and two #5s and maybe a #6 and not been at all upset about any of it. Oct 19, 2008
Michael Ybarra
on the road
 
Michael Ybarra   on the road
 
Another way to fire the exit moves on P2 is to pinch the rope groves below the chains. Apr 30, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
pretty good route, i'd call both pitches 5.10- that offwidth felt pretty tough....props to Michael who sent it with a single #4 C4! yowsers! Apr 19, 2008
chrisp
boulder
chrisp   boulder
the top pitch needs a old number 4 cam and a new #5 cam. a hand sized cam or two down low were nice right off the belay. I just bumped the 5 came up a bit to get me through. save a #1 camelot for the top out- that was a wee bit sandy and scary. Mar 10, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Thanks, Sam. The anchor that was up there before was a mess! Oct 10, 2007
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
The Arches Task Force and the ASCA have now replaced the anchor on top with chain and two half inch bolts. The route can be rapped, I think, with a 70 meter rope... A single sixty puts you about 10 feet off the ledge. Oct 10, 2007
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
 
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
 
No need for #5 Camalot, it is too big. Two 4.5 Camalots (ie purple #5 C4) would be ideal.

Hand-hand stacks on the second pitch and too narrow to get a knee in - one of the harder offwidth techniques to master.

The "VERY spicy" move to the top is only moderatly spicey IMHO. Don't let the above comment scare you off. There is a horizontal crack between the chimney and the anchors that you can stuff full of cams. I got in a #3, #3.5, and a #1 camalot and then equalized them. Beyond that it is only a move or two and then you can reach the anchors.

This is an awesome route - go do it! Nov 6, 2006
Joe Auer
Moab, Utah
 
Joe Auer   Moab, Utah
 
you can rappel from the summit anchors with one 70m rope. rapping from the summit keeps the rope out of the many deep (and possibly rope jamming) rope grooves near the top. Sep 2, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
First pitch is awesome. Size goes BD#0.75 Camalots all the way to BD#4 Camalots... with the business being slightly kicked-back hands to wide hands. Felt like 9+/10- compared to Indian Creek grades.

Second pitch. Ug. I recommend 2x#4.5 Camalots for the aid climbing personally....

The anchors are on the middle bird... and there is a very spicy move to gain the top... remember, it ain't over until it is over.

Great weekend climb as it doesn't get much traffic. In the sun until noon. Two single raps work fine. Feb 1, 2006
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I dunno, for me a 10a OW is harder than a 10c hand crack! Apr 20, 2004
Josh Janes    
 
On the topo the first pitch was given 10c and the second 10a, seems like they should be reversed... May 8, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I agree, Josh, the handcrack bulge low down is hard 5.10, but the OW is definitely the crux, Might it be useful to carry a #5 Camalot for this section? Thankfully, the OW is short, but that is no help when you are at the bottom of it. This is the best route I've done at Arches (out of about 6!). May 8, 2003