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Routes in The Three Penguins

Anorexia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Greater Wrong of the Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Petrified Bear's Dick 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Right Chimney T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Description

The Three Penguins has a well-deserved name, although as one of my partners pointed out from the summit, the shadow looks more like a camel. It is the first formation you notice driving up into Arches after going through the gate.
Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

Park just past it at an indefinate turnout on the left side of the road. You can do a chossy pitch directly up to the base of the formation or you can scramble up slopes to the right and then traverse back left on ledges (fast and easy).

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Three Penguins

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Park at turnout on left side of road after the last switchback just past a 15mph sign facing downcanyon, only 1-2 miles from the visitor center. Try to find the most used trail or stay on slickrock till reaching the ledge system that takes you right over. 5-10 min approach. Nov 19, 2012
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
"...one of the walking approaches..."
Nov 30, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Well, whatever you do, do one of the walking approaches, because the base rock (Dewey Member Mudstone) is such choss for an approach pitch. Nov 30, 2009
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
See Petrified Bear's Dick Apr 25, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
You can also approach the Penguins from the west: scramble up the drainage west of them and gain the same ledge at the base of the formations, follow this right (east) to the base of the routes. This is slightly longer than the approach from the other side but makes for an interesting "Tour de Penguins".

Also, both of the scrambling approaches look rather improbable from the road. May 7, 2003

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