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The Three Penguins

Utah > Moab Area > Arches NP
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Three Penguins has a well-deserved name, although as one of my partners pointed out from the summit, the shadow looks more like a camel. It is the first formation you notice driving up into Arches after going through the gate.

Getting There

Park just past it at an indefinate turnout on the left side of the road. You can do a chossy pitch directly up to the base of the formation or you can scramble up slopes to the right and then traverse back left on ledges (fast and easy).

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Anorexia
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 1
The Greater Wrong of the Right
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
 1
Petrified Bear's Dick
Aid 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 112
Right Chimney
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Anorexia
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Greater Wrong of the Right
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Petrified Bear's Dick
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 Aid 2 pitches
Right Chimney
 112
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Three Penguins
[Hide Photo] Three Penguins
Three Penguins
[Hide Photo] Three Penguins
Three Penguins from below
[Hide Photo] Three Penguins from below
A cave we passed through on the approach
[Hide Photo] A cave we passed through on the approach
Near the base of the route. We geared up here, where there's lots of space.
[Hide Photo] Near the base of the route. We geared up here, where there's lots of space.
Another view of The Three Penguins
[Hide Photo] Another view of The Three Penguins
The three birds;  kind of hard to tell from this angle.  Right chimney is the obvious corner in the sun.  There is a climber at the belay.
[Hide Photo] The three birds; kind of hard to tell from this angle. Right chimney is the obvious corner in the sun. There is a climber at the belay.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] You can also approach the Penguins from the west: scramble up the drainage west of them and gain the same ledge at the base of the formations, follow this right (east) to the base of the routes. This is slightly longer than the approach from the other side but makes for an interesting "Tour de Penguins".

Also, both of the scrambling approaches look rather improbable from the road. May 7, 2003
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
[Hide Comment] See Petrified Bear's Dick Apr 25, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Well, whatever you do, do one of the walking approaches, because the base rock (Dewey Member Mudstone) is such choss for an approach pitch. Nov 30, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
[Hide Comment] Park at turnout on left side of road after the last switchback just past a 15mph sign facing downcanyon, only 1-2 miles from the visitor center. Try to find the most used trail or stay on slickrock till reaching the ledge system that takes you right over. 5-10 min approach. Nov 19, 2012