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Routes in Comatose Area

Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Comatose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conception T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Time in Budapest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Egg Hunt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Feud T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Lost Face T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Name Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Preying Mantis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull the Plug S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resurrection Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty Redneck T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trick or Feet T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 2 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Waltzing Matilda T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Ian McAlexander, Sean Cobourn, Eric Mullins, Greg Mullins, 1993
Page Views: 2,591 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 27, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

Rusty Redneck climbs a thin blunt arete to start then follows a series of crimpy face edges up a face. Fun climbing. Crux is down low on the route. A piece or three may ease the mind.

Location

RR is located up hill from Comatose on a ledge just right of a gully. From the top of this ledge you can see the upper portion of Comatose.

Protection

Six bolts...not counting/climbing the one way right (fourth). Anchors at the top. I recall being able to do this route with one 60m rope.

Photos

A few details on this one.

1. I think the bolt way out right is for Cookie Time.
2. A few small cams fit nicely in the horizontal grooves that come after the crux.
3. It appears that for the last moves, you have to leave a good stance to reach the last bolt. That spot is actually protectable with a pink tricam. There is a two-finger pocket around your feet and to the right (approximately). Since all NC climbers always carry their trusty pinky, the bolt seemed unnecessary. Oct 19, 2016
EthanC
 
EthanC  
 
I brought and placed a few small cams to protect the runout around the 4th bolt. Didn't see multiple bolt lines, tried staying left as advised and still got into some runout terrain. Only 5.8/9ish climbing there IIRC. I probably placed a 1 and 3 mastercam. Mar 11, 2015
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
He is happily living out in SLC area now. Oct 14, 2014
The Pilsner Prophet
Albuquerque N.M.
The Pilsner Prophet   Albuquerque N.M.
Was this route originally called "Rusty Rednecks and the Superbowl Stool Pigeons"? I led this thing not long after Ian & the rest did the first ascent. They were calling it 5.8 At the time. I remember it being a great, fun route. It seems like a lot of the routes we did were upgraded. What ever Happened to Ian? I'll never forget when he showed up at Buzzard Hill with a toad tattooed on his shoulder. Jun 22, 2014
Jeff Jenkins
  5.10c
Jeff Jenkins  
  5.10c
Lead this a couple times now, think its the best around that grade at the Bald, crux is getting through the first 3 low bolts, dont head right towards a lone high bolt, very runout that way. Feb 25, 2013
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
 
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
 
After the first three bolts on the arete keep left and resist the temptation to follow the line of least resistance. Jan 12, 2012