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Routes in Comatose Area

Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Comatose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conception T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Time in Budapest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Egg Hunt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Feud T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Lost Face T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Name Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Preying Mantis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull the Plug S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resurrection Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty Redneck T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trick or Feet T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 2 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Waltzing Matilda T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jeff Burton and Matt Hodges
Page Views: 7,731 total, 59/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 27, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


103 Opinions

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Description

Comatose is the classic climb is this area. The climb follows an arching and widening crack, using some jams and liebacks, until you step onto the face at a notch. Cruise the face climbing section to the anchors

Location

You can miss this crack...

Protection

Standard NC rack and a 4 inch piece. Long slings. Rap anchors at the top of the climb. 60 m rope will get you to the ground with stretch (barely)...a 70 m is better.

Photos

JackWeaver
Greenville, south Carolina
 
JackWeaver   Greenville, south Carolina
 
I liked the climb, but the run out after pulling onto the face was too long for me. It was easy climbing, but not worth the risk in my opinion. Mar 13, 2017
Alan Nehemy  
 
Great climb. Going over the roof is definitely scary, but it was fine. I worried about the 60m rope, but needlessly. If it gets you a couple of feet of the ground, that counts to me as getting me all the way to the ground, so I wouldn't worry about it. That was on a 9.8 rope, I think, so on thinner ropes, you may even get all the way to the ground. I'm 185lb, so that also needs to be taken into consideration regarding the stretch. With NO load, the 60m doubled rope with knots on both ends was perhaps 4-5 feet off the floor, but there are very good footing and safe down climbing from there. Lastly, the rope length I'm referring to is considering that the second climber, myself, went up clearing gear, so both ends of the rope are coming straight down from the anchors. If you plan on belaying the lead before ascending, 60m is definitely not enough. Nov 1, 2016
Really fun, smooth climbing. A perfect 5.8 on beautiful black grippy rock. The roof pull on lead was intimidating at first, but not too scary in the end result. It rewards you for sticking with it! Nov 18, 2015
b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
  5.8
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
  5.8
as noted by others- this is a great line that is extremely well protected. the #4 is definitely nice to have as the crack widens. we protected the notch/rooflet with a BD 0.2(yellow). Pink tricam works very well on the face above the notch. Dec 12, 2014
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.8+
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.8+
Comatose reminds me of a classic Yosemite layback, a great line with awesome pro! A #4 Camalot is definitely mandatory to keep things safe moving through the wide section, also bring a .3 Camalot for the runout up top. May 9, 2014
John L
Fort Collins, CO
 
John L   Fort Collins, CO
 
Beta:

A green C3 will protect pulling the roof. Mar 15, 2014
Just so you know - prepare for a healthy stretch of runout (on easy ground) after you step onto the face. Continuing to the apex of the crack and pulling the bulge reduces the runout but not entirely. Dec 13, 2011
scoTt Millbern
Langenfeld, Germany
 
scoTt Millbern   Langenfeld, Germany
 
I'll agree with saxfiend. Go up to the top of the crack. A lot more fun.

I though it was a little run out after getting away from the crack, but on very easy ground May 6, 2008
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8
Great route! The start is a little strenuous, but the gear is great. Double ropes are a good option, and maybe even necessary -- even with rope stretch, 60m wasn't enough for me to get to the ground from the anchors (though I guess if I'd done the route right, I might have had more rope left over).

If you want to add a little spice to your lead, instead of moving over to the face where the crack widens out, continue up to the apex of the crack and pull the roof into a right-facing dihedral (I did this by mistake). Mar 10, 2008