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Routes in Comatose Area

Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Comatose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conception T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Time in Budapest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Egg Hunt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Feud T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Lost Face T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Name Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Preying Mantis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull the Plug S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resurrection Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty Redneck T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trick or Feet T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 2 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Waltzing Matilda T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ken Pitts, Karl Lail
Page Views: 420 total · 16/month
Shared By: rock-fencer on Jan 4, 2016 with updates
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

P1: Climb an unprotected slab just right of a pine tree aiming for a thin vegetated crack that leads to the dihedral. Climb up the dihedral into a minin roof pulling left into the finger crack and arete. Climb that to a tree below a bolt. 100ft

p2: climb up to the bolt and up the face into the wide flake. Climb under the wide flake with good gear up to where it converges with the gully, through big crack, fun moves on big holds will get you up over the roof to the same pine tree.

Climbing up on the face to the right after the bolt is beeline. Same start. This was put up by Rodney Lanier.

I dont really care who put up which route first. the point is to share the description of these routes which previous to the guide being out were lost in the grass and bushes of the occasional adventuring climber. They are both about the same quality and difficulty.


Rap: 1 70m rope will get you down via the gully or come up a bit shy of conception anchor - but can be attained with some shenaniganry - (tie knots in the end please if going to this anchor!!!)

Location

located 20 feet uphill of conception. look for a short right facing dihedral and finger crack about 80 ft up.

Protection

standard rack...if you want to tackle the wide crack above id recommend double #3, a 4,5 and maybe a six or second five

Photos

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RODNEY LANIER
Asheville, North Carolina
RODNEY LANIER   Asheville, North Carolina
The first pitch is Beeline. At belay Beeline goes straight up ,Preying Mantis goes left. Oct 30, 2017
JohnnyRemein
Asheville
 
JohnnyRemein   Asheville
 
I just climbed this today and cleaned up the old melted tat on the tree ledge. I also inspected both trees and would NOT recommend anyone use them to rappel. When jerking the trees around to test their integrity, all of the surrounding dirt moved with them. It seems this could be a good candidate for a rappel anchor, I'll inquire with the CCC about that. There is a tree to climbers left that was bomber, but it's a little tricky getting to it. Great route! Mar 11, 2017
matt swaim
Charlotte, North Carolina
matt swaim   Charlotte, North Carolina
take some webbing for the tree anchor at the top of p2. the old one was laying in a melted pile and i didnt have any to replace, which was not so bright. Feb 9, 2017
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
 
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
 
i actually have it turns out...just never realized it Jan 19, 2016
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
you really ought to buy a guidebook.... ;) Jan 18, 2016
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
 
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
 
dont have guidebook with FA info so if someone PMs me i'll update. This is a really good route that needs some more traffic and will clean up well. Jan 4, 2016

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