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Routes in Comatose Area

Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Comatose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conception T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Time in Budapest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Egg Hunt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Feud T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Lost Face T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Name Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Preying Mantis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull the Plug S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resurrection Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty Redneck T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trick or Feet T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 2 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Waltzing Matilda T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: MIke Reardon, Ken Pitts
Page Views: 1,648 total, 28/month
Shared By: Mike Reardon on Mar 10, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A few fun cruxes on P1 and a looming dihedral over giant jugs, cracks, and solid pro on P2 make this a memorable outing. The opening crack took some cleaning but with some traffic, it should shape up to be a nice moderate.

Location

Just left of the gully left of Resurrection, close to where the approach trail hits the rock.

Protection

Standard rack, 2 bolts and a 2 bolt rap anchor on P1. Merge left to the rap tree on the top of P2, which is the same rap tree for Beeline/ Praying Mantis. A double 60M rope rap straight to the ground is recommended to keep you out of the gully to the left.

Photos

Mike Reardon  
 
Take corner to top and rap from a tree above the corner of you have two ropes. If you only have one rope, go left to rap Beeline/ Praying Mantis. If there's a run out up there it is 3rd class. Nov 13, 2017
From the anchors on P1, do you begin climbing straight up the right facing corner/finger crack (fun!) or do you start out going left straight off the belay? I went straight up for 75 feet or so following good pro for the most part, but then wound up right next to the dihedral looking over to a rap tree like 25 feet to climber's left. Traversing was unprotected and I could not find a way to scamper over to the tree, so I had to downclimb/bail. Nov 13, 2017
This ended up being much better than I expected. The first pitch has good variety, and nice movement. It was a good test at 5.8 but not scary. Quite a beautiful pitch! Oct 29, 2016
The corner at the beginning was dirty and wet, so it felt like the crux on a misty day. After a cleaning and some traffic, it will be a delightful moderate in this area. Take lots of little stuff, especially C3's Apr 27, 2015
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.8
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.8
Very fun. Pretty much just microcams and bolts on pitch 1. Pieces between and above the bolts are easy to get wrong - delicate rock - but the climbing is quite moderate. Opening corner seemed the crux and well protected. Dec 28, 2014
Mike Reardon  
 
Austin; I think you were not on Conception, you were on Bunkys Rest Day, which certainly should have an R. Right of Bunky's is a gully with a rap tree for Beeline/Praying Mantis, then an unknown R/X with an aluminum hanger, then Conception. TCU's would help both of these routes. The upcoming guidebook should help. Jun 7, 2013
I think P1 is the same route as 'Bunky's Rest Day (5.8)' in 'Selected Climbs in NC'. I would not recommend this route to someone new to leading 5.8 trad. The climbing itself is fun and easy, but the protection made it really not fun for me. If you've lead a lot of 5.9 trad in NC, and don't mind run-out, you'll totally enjoy it. I only did Pitch 1. If I had some TCU's (mini-cams) it would've felt safer. There are plenty of cracks to put pro in on the 1st half of P1, but nuts feel weak here. And the 2nd half of P1 there are no places for trad gear and there's no bolt for like 25 feet! It just felt run-out and scary. I also noticed a rap ring around a tree about 75' up and 15' to the right in that big gully. If there were some more bolts on the top half of P1 (even though the climbing here is 5.6 and 5.7) I would've loved it. I'd rate it a 5.8 R. Jun 6, 2013