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Routes in Comatose Area

Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Comatose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conception T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Time in Budapest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Egg Hunt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Feud T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Lost Face T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Name Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Preying Mantis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull the Plug S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resurrection Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty Redneck T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trick or Feet T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 2 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Waltzing Matilda T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Reardon, David Knupp Easter 2011, FFA Ron Funderburke
Page Views: 987 total, 12/month
Shared By: Mike Reardon on Apr 26, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

These two pitches offer a ton of variety and exciting moves.
P1: Pull the roof at two horizontal cracks (crux) and clip a bolt, follow the well protected to the off width section above the bolt. ramp up until you can trend right onto the crimpy 5.9/10 face, stay far right on the face for a yellow TCU in a horizontal crack (alternatively, you can climb a cleaner and easier face to the left and clip a bolt on the unknown route to the left. Your belay crack is in a horizontal at exactly 100 feet, about 15 feet right of the 2nd bolt on the unknown 5.8.
P2:Basically the same as "Egg Hunt" 5.8. Take the easy slab up and right until you can make the exciting step across the arete to the obvious 45 foot fist crack. Hop and stem between a sharp arete, a fist crack, and another nice arete, passing a hug horn out right, and avoiding the vegetation. Rap from the tree 100 feet to the ground (near Sea Wolf)

Location

100 feet right of Comatose. From Comatose; walk right past Bunkeys, past the little gully where Praying Mantis/Beeline starts and a route with a homemade hanger 50 feet up, past another small gully and a locate a route (5.8 name unknown) that starts with a slab move to a bolt 20 feet high. This route starts 15 feet right of that at a ramp to a left facing corner/roof.

Protection

from 00 TCU's to 4". take extra runners for the 2nd pitch. The ground is such that even though each pitch is 100 feet, you only need one rope to get down.

Photos

Mike Reardon  
 
A two bolt anchor has been added at 100 ft. Jan 6, 2013
jlane  
That was fun. Enjoyed the roof move and the fist crack! Dec 2, 2012