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Routes in Comatose Area

Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Comatose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conception T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Time in Budapest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Egg Hunt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Feud T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Lost Face T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Name Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Preying Mantis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull the Plug S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resurrection Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty Redneck T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trick or Feet T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 2 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Waltzing Matilda T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike Rearon, Willy Munder 2012
Page Views: 2,250 total, 32/month
Shared By: Mike Reardon on Mar 23, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Named after a Jack London short story where an inmate fools his captives into beheading him instead of torturing him. This route is much more tame.
Belay at the double tree. Follow the easy right hand face to a large ledge with a bolt at an overhang(cant see from the ground). It then climbs an easier prow between two prominent aretes in an isolated setting.

Location

From Comatose; follow the rock right for 200', head up into the 'Jack London Amphitheater' still following the rock face, locate a steep but short gully with a large double tree (see photo).

Protection

small to med TCU's, 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Agreed.... the amphitheater is a war zone of trees and rock pieces. This climb and Egg Hunt are located in a tiny pocket at the top of the gully, making for an extraordinarily uncomfortable belay location. Kind of ridiculous actually. But this sporty face climb was quite fun, and offered a grand view from the top. It's tame for 5.7 but fairly rated. A couple of cool moves. Jul 16, 2016
This is fast becoming one of my favorite moderate routes at Rumbling Bald. Safe, but with just enough spice for the leader to keep things interesting. Follows the arete and then veers off to the right on the upper third of the route. Sixty meter rope just makes the return doable from the anchors. This route is much more preferred than Egg Hunt just to the left.

It gets sun in the afternoon, but the belay at the tree in the gully can be shady.

Note poison ivy growing below and right of second bolt. It can be avoided.

It should be noted that a significant rock fall has occurred in late November 2015 making the approach somewhat challenging (be careful ascending into the Amphitheater area of Sea Wolf). There are lots of loose rocks and downed trees. Dec 6, 2015