[Hide Comment] After the first three bolts on the arete keep left and resist the temptation to follow the line of least resistance. Jan 12, 2012

[Hide Comment] Lead this a couple times now, think its the best around that grade at the Bald, crux is getting through the first 3 low bolts, dont head right towards a lone high bolt, very runout that way. Feb 25, 2013

[Hide Comment] Was this route originally called "Rusty Rednecks and the Superbowl Stool Pigeons"? I led this thing not long after Ian & the rest did the first ascent. They were calling it 5.8 At the time. I remember it being a great, fun route. It seems like a lot of the routes we did were upgraded. What ever Happened to Ian? I'll never forget when he showed up at Buzzard Hill with a toad tattooed on his shoulder. Jun 22, 2014

[Hide Comment] He is happily living out in SLC area now. Oct 14, 2014

[Hide Comment] I brought and placed a few small cams to protect the runout around the 4th bolt. Didn't see multiple bolt lines, tried staying left as advised and still got into some runout terrain. Only 5.8/9ish climbing there IIRC. I probably placed a 1 and 3 mastercam. Mar 11, 2015

[Hide Comment] Bring tricams. There were only a couple of spots where cams would have been preferable; the horizontals are mostly pretty shallow. A #1 camalot ended up being the only cam I used. Also, you can rap this with a 60 but knot your ends; I made it just to the big foothold below the first bolt. The crux is definitely the move getting off that hold and up to the second bolt, but after the three bolts it still feels pretty 5.9, just take your time and find the sinker holds and the occasional rail. It's a great climb! May 7, 2020

[Hide Comment] Tricams are 100% not needed (here, or pretty much anywhere). The cam or stopper placements are just fine. Also, it's probably 5.7 by the time you can place anything so I think you'll be fine. Feb 27, 2024