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Routes in Ronin's Corner

Astral Travels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream Believer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreams of Passion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Free Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
MCM T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magical Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ridge Runner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sammy's Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Dancing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Weeniedancing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wobbler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: D. Jones, T. Ryan, C. Ryan, 1992
Page Views: 106 total, 1/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

The arete just right of Dreams of Passion. This isn't as hard as Dreams, but still requires tough friction moves between bolts spaced enough to keep it exciting.

Protection

The first bolt is pretty high. It used to be possible to pre-clip it by standing on a stump, but the stump is now gone. The first moves, especially if you take the slab on the left, could well be the crux, and the base drops off right below the bolt so you risk a fifteen foot fall after only climbing ten feet. All this suggests that stick-clipping is a very good idea, but you may be able to climb MCM to the height of the bolt and traverse over to it.

Take a few nuts or small cams for the crack between the two slab sections. There's a two-bolt anchor at the top of Dreams of Passion that works for this climb.

Photos

Lucian G.
California
Lucian G.   California
Agreed that starting to the left of the arete and traversing over was challenging. I stupidly only brought 1 cam on this thing and it was... exciting, to say the least. Sep 13, 2017
Dru
Dru  
The original start works up edges just right of the arete and steps back left just below the first bolt. It's super exposed but significantly easier than trying to climb up left of the arete to the bolt. Nov 20, 2014