Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: D. Jones and G. Korba, 1992
Page Views: 241 total · 2/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Just right of Magical Child is a classic Smoke Bluffs slab. Tough moves on very small features give way to pure friction moves. Amazing friction, but very technical requiring precise control and balance.

Protection

Typical Squamish slab: bolts, but not enough to feel secure.

Photos

The second to last bolt has been fixed and is no longer spinning. May 22, 2016
Heady and PG13 for sure. But soft for .11b even climbing it in the sun today. I think more like 5.11a. Closer in difficulty to Over Forty. Jun 28, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
I haven't climbed a huge variety of squamish slab to compare, but it did seem like a step up from fear of flying. Not so much a one move thing, it's a fairly sustained route. Good variety with edging down low and smearing up high. Highly recommend stick clipping the first bolt, it's not trivial getting there. Jul 23, 2018
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
TRd this... and it's awesome - but it would be a pretty exciting lead. Aug 17, 2018