Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Robin Barley, Ali Morrow 2008
Page Views: 791 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jul 31, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Great friction climb right up the center of the slab. Amazing what your feet will stick to. Follow the first two bolts, possibly slightly easier on the left side, to a left trending ramp. This is the crux and involved a couple edges down low, then just a lot of trust on whatever small bumps you can find.

Cruise through the next section of easier climbing to the final headwall and remaining two bolts. A touch easier than the bottom, but still probably 10b fun slabbing.

Location

The right-most climb at Ronin's Corner. About 15' right of MCM.

Protection

7 bolts, anchor+chains. Well bolted.

Photos

Ryan Lynne
  5.10c
Ryan Lynne  
  5.10c
One of my favourite slab climbs in the Smokebluffs, super fun and a very aesthetic line. The crux of the route is getting up the first slab particularly at the second and third bolt. The climbing is easier above. May 23, 2016
Denise C  
 
Was quite different from any other climbs I've done in Squamish. The crux is generally getting over the first slab, other than that the route is pretty easy to manage.
Only tip is that the ropes get quite a lot of friction at the top, as there is a pretty big top out move. Be careful when top rope descending and that's pretty much it.
Pretty creative route, you'll be surprised by what you use as footholds and handholds. Advice is probably to follow the areas where there is a lot of chalk deposit, usually you can find a pretty good crimpy edge, otherwise, it's full of slopers. Jun 12, 2017