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Routes in j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area
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Arete I TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Arete II TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Can He Share? TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Cool Hand Luke T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Easy Rider T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Flying Buttman TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hustler, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Popcorn T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sac's Fifth Avenue TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Slap Shot TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Up A Tree T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 870 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Taino Grosjean on Jan 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
This route might, at first, seem soft; perhaps no harder than mild 5.7. However, once you get towards the top - and start on the slightly overhanging, slanted part of the arete - you'll see why it's actually fairly graded. If you duck off onto the easier face to the left at the top, you're only gypping yourself.
Location
Climb the arete approximately 3 feet right of Easy Rider and 10 feet right of Up A Tree. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain, from the top.
Protection
Spicy lead, especially at the top (very sparse). Recommend TRing this one.
The pillar has 3 (three!) bolts WITHOUT rappel rings on top, and the bolts are well back from the edge. The top of the pillar is a 3' jump across a 40-50' drop, to get to the main rock to the left. You may end up rappelling from the tree, or counterweight rappelling. Thanks for the bolts, guys! -JSH
The pillar has 3 (three!) bolts WITHOUT rappel rings on top, and the bolts are well back from the edge. The top of the pillar is a 3' jump across a 40-50' drop, to get to the main rock to the left. You may end up rappelling from the tree, or counterweight rappelling. Thanks for the bolts, guys! -JSH
Photos
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