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Routes in j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area

Arete I TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arete II TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Can He Share? TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Cool Hand Luke T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Easy Rider T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Flying Buttman TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hustler, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sac's Fifth Avenue TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Slap Shot TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Up A Tree T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 288 total, 2/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Thin, facey route with both a low and high crux, this route is again suprisingly difficult for its grade. Anyone leading this should be aware that it's VERY spicy, and there is groundfall potential throughout nearly the entire route. All of the gear is small, and hard to find.

The pillar has 3 (three!) bolts WITHOUT rappel rings on top, and the bolts are well back from the edge. The top of the pillar is a 3' jump across a 40-50' drop, to get to the main rock to the left. You may end up rappelling from the tree, or counterweight rappelling. Thanks for the bolts, guys! -JSH

Location

Climb the face 5 feet right of Up A Tree, staying off the arete to the right.

Protection

Thin, sparse, hidden gear. Bolted TR anchor.

Photos

rogerbenton
  5.6
rogerbenton  
  5.6
i call it PG.
after the starting moves theres a bd .75 from an almost hands free stance.
there's a .4 above that.
then theres a #2 out left you can extend.
then you're at the top and the bolts are right there.

you can set up TR anchors in such a way as to hit this pitch and the "5.9" on the arete (felt like easy 5.7) then flip the anchor sling over and it's positioned perfectly for "sac's fifth avenue" 5.11 on the adjacent face. Jun 24, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7
Good jughaul for a few moves off the ground, then nice balancy moves the rest of the way. Using double side pulls midway up to ascend the route qualifies it for a soft 5.7 rating, and if not then for the overhanging, bouldery starting moves. Definitely not a 5.6 Oct 9, 2011
Tabo
 
Tabo  
 
The PK guide gives this route a "G" rating, but I have to agree with the "R" rating. I remember it was very thin, and thinking that there wasn't much that was going to keep me off the ground if I fell. Aug 31, 2009
divnamite
New York, NY
 
divnamite   New York, NY
 
Good hard climb for beginners. If using bolts up top, be aware that when climbing this face, a fall will swing you quite a bit. Sep 19, 2007