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Arete I

5.8+ R, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 30 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > j. Scrotum Pole/Drive…

Description

This route might, at first, seem soft; perhaps no harder than mild 5.7. However, once you get towards the top - and start on the slightly overhanging, slanted part of the arete - you'll see why it's actually fairly graded. If you duck off onto the easier face to the left at the top, you're only gypping yourself.

Location

Climb the arete approximately 3 feet right of Easy Rider and 10 feet right of Up A Tree. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain, from the top.

Protection

Spicy lead, especially at the top (very sparse). Recommend TRing this one.

The pillar has 3 (three!) bolts WITHOUT rappel rings on top, and the bolts are well back from the edge. The top of the pillar is a 3' jump across a 40-50' drop, to get to the main rock to the left. You may end up rappelling from the tree, or counterweight rappelling. Thanks for the bolts, guys! -JSH

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

divnamite
New York, NY
 
[Hide Comment] It's actually 1 1/2 star. Sep 19, 2007
[Hide Comment] we basically straddled the arete the whole way and it felt like a pretty easy 5.8 at most. Jun 24, 2012
H..
Washingtonville NY
[Hide Comment] i think you need to stay to the right in order for it to be 5.9. Cheating left in anyway makes it substantially easier. Jun 27, 2013
Chad Jones
Cramerton, NC
 
[Hide Comment] As noted in previous comments, there are three HANGERS, NO RINGS. Rappel from these are not recommend, as it can damage a rope. Rapped off the tree growing into the rock just fine (place rope above knot on limb). Regardless of the grade it is an "R" rating. Your last piece will be half way, falling beyond will put you on the ground. Maybe a talented belayer will lessen the impact by running, but be aware. Hands are pretty good up top, feet are okay. Jul 3, 2017
[Hide Comment] Rapped off the tree growing into the rock just fine (place rope above knot on limb).

As in you rapped directly off of the tree, rope on bark?

And it sounds like your rope was at least secure (you mention placing it over a knot on a limb) but from what I remember (it has been years) the tree growing into/around the rock moves with the wind and a gap can actually open with a strong enough wind. Jul 5, 2017
[Hide Comment] I'm sure Chad put his rope over the big limb up there and not pinched between the tree and the pillar. Jul 5, 2017
Franz Buzawa
Brooklyn, NY
  5.7+ PG13
[Hide Comment] 1. As of 09/15/19 2 of the bolts at the top of the pillar have rap rings attached, the 3rd doesn't.
2. The placements for pro weren't that great—the rock is solid, but the features limit the strength and quality of the placement, i.e., shallow + flaring crack.
3. Don't agree with the rating at all and not sure I agree with the idea of "cheating" by using features that are within reach of one another either—we're climbing outdoors, not in the controlled environment of a gym—use what's there, and have fun. Sep 16, 2019