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Routes in j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area

Arete I TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arete II TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Can He Share? TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Cool Hand Luke T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Easy Rider T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Flying Buttman TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hustler, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sac's Fifth Avenue TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Slap Shot TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Up A Tree T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 583 total · 4/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 13, 2006
Admins: JSH

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Description

A "gimme" 5.5, it's a good way to get up on top of the pillar to set up the other routes on it. Sling tree limbs for anchor.

The pillar has 3 (three!) bolts WITHOUT rappel rings on top, and the bolts are well back from the edge. The top of the pillar is a 3' jump across a 40-50' drop, to get to the main rock to the left. You may end up rappelling from the tree, or counterweight rappelling. Thanks for the bolts, guys! -JSH

Location

Start next to large boulder at base of tree on left side of pillar; go straight up small dihedral and trend left towards top to avoid the tree.

Protection

G-PG gear, some of it quite fiddly. Bring cams up to #2, and some hexes for the flake. The tree, of course, is off.

Photos

David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.4
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.4
Easier than 5.5, and not a very interesting route. The crux is the tree getting in your way.

I led it without hexes, and I did not wish I had them. I agree the gear placements were a bit fiddly, though.

That said, giving 1 star as it's the safest way to get up and set up a top rope, for sure. Aug 6, 2018

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