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Routes in j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area

Arete I TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arete II TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Can He Share? TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Cool Hand Luke T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Easy Rider T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Flying Buttman TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hustler, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sac's Fifth Avenue TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Slap Shot TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Up A Tree T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,226 total · 30/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 13, 2006
Admins: JSH

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Description

Climb obvious offwidth and face above. Two cruxes - first ten feet, and half-way up the face (long reach on iffy holds).

Location

Left of the detached pillar is a flat wall with an obvious offwidth crack at the bottom, a blank face above, and a corner system above that. Climb the obvious offwidth, through the face, and up through the corner system. 4th-class scramble up to top of cliff, or careful 3rd-class traverse on ledge (right) to easier walk-off.

Protection

PG pro. Tricky to place. Gear anchor at top.

Photos

I would say the pro isn't tricky to place if have small tri-cams and C3's or equivalent. Nov 14, 2008
Michael G
  5.6
Michael G  
  5.6
pro was fine. Jul 26, 2010
IJMayer
Anacortes, WA
IJMayer   Anacortes, WA
probably PG Mar 25, 2011
Phredward
Brooklyn, NY
Phredward   Brooklyn, NY
If you're setting a TR anchor from above, a long static line will be helpful for keeping you anchored to something while scrambling down to the top of the route. We set the anchor just climber's right of the nose of the triangle at the top of the route.

We started the climb just to the right of the crack at the bottom, then stepping into the crack. Aug 29, 2016
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.6
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.6
Pro was fine, but it was tricky enough to place that I chose to run it out instead in a few spots. If you're not comfortable with the grade, placing the gear will be challenging.

Very fun route, competitor with Genuflect for the best lead at the grade in Peterskill. Jul 9, 2018

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