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Routes in Banana Belt

Bloody Pawprints S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Butt Wipe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Environmental Terrorist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hip Pockets T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Love Crack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Love Over Gold S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Love Stinks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Makayla S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monsters of Rock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nothern Lite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuke the Whales S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Numb & Number S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Range of Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spread Eagle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedge-O S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Worm Drive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
wandering, but not lost S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: 2/1991, Mike Strassman, Eric Ellis
Page Views: 1,070 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jon duSaint on Dec 12, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Climb pillar, then step to main face at slightly chossy section. Head up the steep face after this.

Protection

12 bolts

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Well protected but the undercling section (3rd bolt maybe) has a bit of gravel at the feet. Just as I was yelling down for my belayer to watch for rocks....there one went. Steep and pumpy with only the 1 choss section lower.

Apparantly this route orginally was run-out and superchoss. Most of which has been cleaned up with traffic and 6 bolts added to the current 12 bolts with Mussy Hooks anchor. Jan 8, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
This is a good route that may change if you pull off a kinda loose and large key undercling at mid height. Jan 8, 2007
kelly cordner
Fish Lake Valley, NV
  5.10a
kelly cordner   Fish Lake Valley, NV
  5.10a
Excellent, well protected endurance warm up route. Compares to Valley 5.8 in difficulty. Apr 6, 2012
^Not sure about the person down grading and adding a PG13 to a route not even 100' with 12 bolts^

The only thing PG13 about this route might be for the belayer.

In any case, this was a fun route. Certainly more pumpy than the climb to the right. Nothing particularly hard here, just a lot of the same movement. Dec 3, 2013
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10b PG13
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10b PG13
Not PG 13 if you don't fall. Might be worse if you do in the wrong place. I would not want to fall on 2 of the bolts in the pillar especially making the move right of it into the chossy section. Also the crux is making a move back left, you blow that clip and you just might land right on top of the pillar. Dec 7, 2013
maggie-girl Wenski
Mammoth Lakes, CA
maggie-girl Wenski   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Definitely agree with the pg-13; amount of bolts doesn't matter if you can still fall on a pillar.
I have never felt great about this as a lead. Feb 1, 2014
BAd
  5.10b
BAd  
  5.10b
Loved this! It seems really clean now. A little bit of a run on the pillar, but the climbing is pretty easy there relative to the rest of the pitch. Took a minor slip on the traverse off the pillar. Gotta go back for a clean ascent. Really fun and great position.

BAd Nov 4, 2017
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10b PG13
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10b PG13
Bad, I am guessing you had the first bolt clipped off the pillar? I sure wouldn't want to fall on any of those bolts on the pillar. Have always thought those bolts should be in the solid rock to the right. I guess Mike Strassman added those bolts after Marty called it a death route. I also would hate to fall with much slack or miss the clip at the crux and nail the pillar, ouch. Nov 4, 2017
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
10a on a bad day and that's only because it requires some endurance, not the technical difficulty. Dec 15, 2017
BAd
  5.10b
BAd  
  5.10b
Hey, Jeff: Yeah, I had clipped the bolt off the pillar, so the slip was no big deal. You would not want to blow it before then. It is pretty cool climbing the pillar, however. Without those bolts, it would be a death route. Yikes! I like this route a lot. Mar 12, 2018

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