Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Greg Barnes, Jonathan duSaint, 12/11/06
Page Views: 1,394 total · 10/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Dec 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Fun steep new route, pretty clean for brand new Owens routes.

Location

Starts just right of Environmental Terrorist and heads up and right.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Still a bit dirty, hope this one cleans up in time as it's a good warmup Feb 9, 2012
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Good warm up Jun 16, 2012
That big block flake around the third bolt or so that you move right on seems scary to me...anyone else? Dec 15, 2016
Maidy
  5.9+ PG13
Maidy  
  5.9+ PG13
I actually loved this route. The moves are extremely varied and interesting. I's a great warm-up on decent quality rock. The loose bits aren't that bad and it will clean up quickly with some traffic.

I believe the description above might be a partial mis- identification? The Barnes route that was put up earlier is "Paradise" This one is much newer. ( unless Greg put up a second route later?)
Maybe someone can clarify?

Edit- thanks for the clarification- i can see this was put up shortly after the 10th ed guide was published. Feb 28, 2018
Same route, Dan pried the block I was talking about, 200+ pounds, off last year. He said it took almost no effort (I would say that's scary). Glad you mentioned it though, now it's gone I can delete. I will add though, now the block is gone the bolt above is harder to clip and I watched several climbers the other day almost blow the clip. Feb 28, 2018
Maidy
  5.9+ PG13
Maidy  
  5.9+ PG13
Thanks for the trundle- its a quality route now. Sort of escaped my notice because its a bit of a scramble to get to it .
I never climbed it with the death-flake in play.

The one clip is pretty reachy making it a bit PG-13. Us T-rex's may want to bring a stiffie cheater draw along for safe measure. Mar 1, 2018
Greg Barnes
  5.9+
Greg Barnes  
  5.9+
Tried to budge that block in 2006 but it wasn't moving, guess a decade of freeze/thaw loosened it up, big THANKS to Dan for cleaning it off safely!

If anyone gets a chance to move the bolt that'd be great! Or I guess a perma-draw (although that sounds really weird on a low-angle 5.9...). Mar 1, 2018
Thanks Greg! Ya it is a very popular climb would be nice to fix it. I will mention it to Dan or Darrell and I will move it next time we have a drill down there. Mar 1, 2018
Greg, Darrell and I brought the drill down and had a look. We both felt the bolt, as is, is in the best spot possible without major manipulation or over bolting. Simply lowering the bolt would just make a more dangerous situation higher at the crux. If someone else would like to add a perma draw??? Mar 7, 2018
BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
Route is nice and clean now. Big fun! Mar 12, 2018